The largest domestic fashion platform, Musinsa, will conduct a comprehensive survey of the material blend ratios of its brand products. This follows controversy after it was revealed that the filling material of some down products was different from what was stated. Musinsa has also implemented a 'three-strike' policy for the problematic brands.
However, some critics point out that Musinsa's response is too late and insufficient. The actual penalties for brands are delayed, leading to accusations of the platform being lenient toward brands since Musinsa generates revenue through listing fees.
The problematic brands have grown alongside Musinsa, and some have even received investments from Musinsa, which increases the accountability of the platform.
According to the fashion industry on the 6th, last month there was controversy on the internet regarding false information about the products from some brands listed on Musinsa. In response to ongoing complaints that the down filling was not duck down, Musinsa conducted its own investigation on six brands, including Rappazstore and Pepul.
As a result, it was revealed that the 'Duck Down Arctic Hood Padding' sold by Rappazstore used a filling material that could not be verified by testing agencies. Similarly, brands such as Pepul, InTempoMood, ORO, and DimitriBlack were all found to be in states where they could not be labeled as duck down padding based on their blend ratios. According to the Korea Consumer Agency, to label a product as duck down padding, the proportion of duck down must be at least 75%. The products found to be in violation contained more polyester than down.
In response, Musinsa decided to implement a 'three-strike' policy where brands will be expelled after three incidents of false reporting or manipulation regarding blend ratios. Additionally, brands planning to introduce new items made of down or cashmere must submit an officially issued test report from a professional institution.
However, some view this action as merely performative. It is argued that these measures were hastily introduced only after consumer complaints escalated. Critics say the response relies solely on post-incident actions without sufficient prior verification, and the three-strike structure is more of a grace period for the brands than a way to restore consumer trust.
For instance, the Rappazstore, which was recently expelled, had already been criticized for using counterfeit YKK zippers, the number one global zipper brand, in other jacket products prior to the duck down padding issue. However, at that time, no action was taken by Musinsa.
Industry insiders point out that Musinsa's passive stance is influenced by the symbiotic relationship between the brands and Musinsa. Musinsa makes revenue through listing fees and therefore cannot afford to be proactive in expulsions and other measures. According to the electronic disclosure system, Musinsa's commission revenue was 302.9 billion won in 2022, accounting for nearly half of its total sales of 708.3 billion won.
Additionally, many K-fashion indie brands have received direct investments from Musinsa. This is due to Musinsa leveraging its platform advantages to invest in emerging brands. Rappazstore is also a brand in which the Musinsa Co-Growth Fund holds approximately 45% equity. Musinsa currently maintains its relationship with ORO, a women's brand from the same company.
There are claims in the industry that Musinsa focused solely on growth and revenue, lacking adequate quality control and ethical verification. Critics also argue that as a platform, Musinsa neglected its responsibility for the quality verification of listed brands. Quality issues such as tag manipulation and mix ratios in K-fashion have been repeatedly raised, yet Musinsa allowed these issues to fester, solely blaming the brands.
A fashion industry official noted, "For the three-strike policy to be more than a mere performative measure, effective quality control measures and specific action plans for restoring trust are essential," adding that "a fashion platform like Musinsa is more than just a simple sales intermediary. While it profits from reviews and sales, it has long overlooked its minimum management responsibilities."