Just as there is no tree without roots, there is no human who escapes time. In the face of the passage of time, humanity has always exhibited a contradictory attitude. Humans have feared aging and decline that come with the passage of time while also cherishing the depth and wisdom that prolonged time brings.
While aging may be a fear for humans, for the vine, growing old is a driving force that creates deeper stories.
According to academia, as the vine ages, it moves deeper into the ground. It roots deeper each year by 30–60 cm. A tree older than 50 years stretches its roots 6–7 meters underground.
When the vine reaches over 50 years, it chooses qualitative abundance over quantitative richness. It quietly digs deeper into the earth, much like a wise person in their old age reflecting on the impulsiveness of their youth and selecting serene insights.
A wine study conducted in Australia found that grapes hanging from vines over 40 years old have antioxidant substances and phenolic compound content that are up to 30% higher. This resembles how, as humans grow older, the flashy exterior diminishes while the inner depth increases.
This duality is clearly evident in the wine industry. Modern wineries that pursue mass production replace 20–30-year-old vines with younger saplings.
In the wine industry, it is considered that a vine has passed its youth after 25 years. From this point onward, the vine regulates its own yield. It does not bear fruit as abundantly as a young tree. Instead, it focuses nutrients more intensively on each bunch of grapes. The slender and deep roots of mature vines reach towards the soil's center to absorb minerals and nutrients. Some experts argue that these various minerals and nutrients enhance the complex flavors in wine.
Small-scale producers who value tradition cherish vines that are decades old, referring to them as Vieilles Vignes or Old Vine. Wine made from grapes of old vines is produced in smaller quantities and sold at higher prices in the market.
After the aphids that parasitized vine roots struck across Europe at the end of the 19th century, the differences between modern wineries and small-scale producers became even more pronounced.
As the vines across Europe began to die simultaneously, small producers desperately protected their old vines. They did not plow their fields or plant new vines. Instead, they grafted the existing, well-grown vines to American rootstocks that were resistant to aphids to overcome the crisis. Even today, visiting French wineries reveals these grafted vines, which have survived for over 100 years, proving the value and vitality of old vines.
Of course, not all wine experts recognize the value of old vines. Master of Wine Tim Atkin, who has a global reputation, noted, "The direct correlation between vine age and wine quality has not been scientifically proven," adding, "Producers tend to use vine age as a marketing tool to raise wine prices."
In contrast, renowned wine critic Robert Parker stated, "Despite extreme climate change, the wines produced from old vines demonstrate remarkable stability," recognizing the special value conferred by time.
Gérard Bertrand is also a wine producer who believes in the potential of old vines. He is a famous winemaker representing the Languedoc region in southern France. He inherited the winery from his father in 1992 and proactively introduced biodynamic farming practices in the area. Biodynamic farming is a classical grape cultivation method passed down since medieval times. It does not use pesticides or even organic fertilizers. Only a small amount of compost is used to allow the vines and soil to naturally harmonize.
Gérard Bertrand's Cuvée 100 encapsulates his winemaking philosophy. This wine is made from grapes harvested from a special section that contains only vines over 100 years old. The vines used in this wine have withstood two world wars and numerous climate changes. Their deeply extended roots have also survived the extreme heat and drought typical of the Mediterranean climate.
To further emphasize the complexity demonstrated by old vines, Bertrand aged this wine in French oak barrels for 18 months. Oak barrels not only add a smooth flavor to wine but also assist in fine oxygen exchange, helping the wine achieve a more balanced taste.
This wine, praised as a crystal of time, won the grand prize in the old world red wine category at the 2024 Korea Liquor Awards. The importer is HiteJinro.