Thirty years ago, drinking pisco mixed with cola was all there was.But now it’s different. Do you see over there?
On the 21st of last month, at a bar in the Bellavista neighborhood of Santiago, Chile, bartender José Miguel pointed to a shelf behind the counter. The transparent bottles stood out prominently among more than 150 varieties of liquor displayed there. It was pisco, Chile's 'national drink'.
“These days, seven out of ten customers order cocktails based on pisco. Foreigners, in particular, are very interested in pisco. From traditional pisco sours to new signature cocktails, pisco is truly a versatile liquor.”
That evening, most of the visitors at the bar ordered pisco cocktails. From traditional pisco sours and pisco colas to new recipes that showcase the bartender's creativity, pisco was being utilized like a canvas for various interpretations.
“What makes pisco special as a cocktail base? It’s precisely this aroma.”
José poured a glass of pisco from the shelf behind him. As he brought the glass to his nose, a subtle floral scent combined with the faint aroma of grapes was detected. While it is neutral like vodka made from potatoes, the richer fruity aroma is the characteristic of pisco.
“Pisco is a distilled spirit that retains the characteristics of its base ingredient, grapes. Moreover, with an alcohol content of about 35-45 degrees, it is suitable for use as a cocktail base. It's not as intense as gin or vodka but has a solid character like rum.”
Alex Preto, a world-renowned bartender working in Macau, explained the advantages of Chilean pisco.
He noted, “Unlike other distilled spirits, pisco possesses a 'friendly personality'. It particularly pairs well with fruit-based cocktails, which aligns perfectly with the recent trend of lower-alcohol, premium cocktails, leading to a renewed appreciation for pisco among bartenders.”
Pisco's growth in the global liquor market is steep. Last year, Chile's pisco export revenue surpassed $5 million, a 22% increase compared to the previous year. Especially in premium bars in the U.S. and Europe, pisco is gaining popularity as a cocktail base.
The impression of a cocktail can change dramatically depending on what liquor is used as the base, whether it is shaken or stirred, what aromas are added or omitted, and what garnish is used. Skilled bartenders can intentionally create cocktails that vary in taste and aroma with every sip. To achieve this, meticulousness and delicacy are required to account for the timing of ingredient mixing and the temperature at which flavors are best released.
“Bartenders love pisco because it is easy to experiment with.”
Phil Ward, head bartender at the popular Dallas bar Death & Co, said to the Chosun Biz, “Vodka is too bland, and gin has too strong a juniper flavor. But pisco is in between. It has enough character while also harmonizing easily with other ingredients.”
At La Projera, a local bar in Santiago, Chile, one could catch a glimpse of the pisco culture enjoyed by locals. This bar serves a unique pisco cocktail called Terremoto (Earthquake), which is made by adding pineapple ice cream to pisco.
Jesus Sanchez, manager of La Projera, said, “Tourists love pisco sours, but we prefer to drink it this way,” adding, “Pisco is flexible, allowing for such experimental attempts.”
The recent success of pisco provides insights for the domestic soju industry. Soju is also a distilled spirit with neutral characteristics like pisco. However, it remains in a limited position in the global cocktail market.
Mark Lee, Asia director of the International Bartenders Association (IBA), mentioned to the Chosun Biz, “Korean soju certainly has potential,” but added, “However, just like pisco, it will require expanding the premium lineup, standardizing quality, and actively engaging with cocktail culture.”