In 1898, at a circus performance, the sight of acrobats balancing gracefully in the air caught the attention of a young sculptor. At that time, the art world was dominated by fixed-form sculptures. The bronze and marble statues filling the art galleries were works that were frozen in one pose for eternity.
The young sculptor Alexander Calder threw down the challenge to this stereotype. The 'mobile' he invented constantly changed within time and space.
Anne Temkin, chief curator of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York, said, "Calder's mobiles are living art created by balance, movement, and time."
The 'Perle de la Grande Cru Millésimé' made by the Otrault family in the Champagne region of France resembles a mobile. This champagne, produced by this family for over 350 years since 1670, has evolved over generations.
In 1953, Gérard Otrault began producing champagne under his own brand with a small 3-hectare vineyard. In the 1980s, his son Éric, who majored in winemaking, added scientific precision. Currently, the third generation, Laurent Otrault, pursues modern changes.
He says, "The champagne from our family must achieve perfect harmony among all elements, like a sophisticated clock, and this has been the value we have pursued for 350 years."
Just as the famous French watchmaker Breguet invented the innovative technique of tourbillon to precisely control the effects of gravity in the 19th century, Otrault uses only natural gravity in the grape pressing process. This method minimizes the pressure applied to the grapes to obtain the purest juice.
The fermentation temperature is strictly maintained at 18-20°C. This is the ideal temperature to optimize yeast activity and allow the champagne to possess delicate aromas. The grapes for champagne are sourced from two regions: Aÿ and Chouilly. The Aÿ region has soil that is mostly clay with limestone components. The Pinot Noir grown in this region offers intense fruit aromas and structure. In contrast, the Chouilly soil is chalky. Chardonnay grown in chalky soil adds salinity and fresh acidity.
Otrault adjusts the proportion of these two grape varieties to either 50-50 or 75-25 depending on the year. This delicately tuned golden ratio determines the vitality of the champagne. Champagne experts say that even a 1% change in the blending ratio of the grapes can disrupt the overall balance, resembling how the weight of a small piece in a mobile can influence the entire movement.
This champagne shows different expressions over time. It has aged in the bottle for over six years to add complexity to its flavor. In the beginning, the dominant aromas are fresh apple, peach, and pineapple. Then, the notes of baked bread and nuts emerge from the aged yeast. As it reaches its peak, one can perceive hints of croissant-like bread with abundant butter and the aroma of roasted hazelnuts.
Experts noted that aging this champagne for over 10 years reveals aromas of truffles, dried figs, and exotic Tongyang spices.
Like Calder's mobile, which moves and lives with time in the museum, Otrault's champagne constantly evolves in the bottle. The influential wine media Wine Enthusiast noted that this champagne resembles "the artwork of French Impressionist painter Monet, specifically the Rouen Cathedral," adding that, "like the cathedral’s appearance, which changes with the time of day, this champagne displays a variety of forms as time goes by."
The Champagne Otrault Perle de la Grande Cru Millésimé Brut, emphasizing intricate balance, received the Daesang award in the sparkling wine category at the 2024 Korea Alcohol Awards. The domestic importer is Wine to You Korea.