It takes about 30 seconds to hold the shari in hand, place the neta on top, and serve it on a plate. Another 15 seconds to pick it up with chopsticks and put it into the mouth. The evaluation of a piece of sushi is concluded in less than 1 minute. Given that the 'impression' is determined in that fleeting moment, it may feel cruel to the sushi artisan.
Even if one piece of sushi passes, one cannot relax. The next piece must go through the same evaluation. As the ingredients used vary each time, one cannot afford to lose focus. Even if 100 pieces are perfect, if even one is off, the 'perfection' the artisan pursues is already distant. The philosophy and effort embedded in the simple structure of rice, ingredients, and wasabi are far from simple.
Thus, each piece must be handled with care. Watching artisans shape the sushi, one can feel beauty even at their fingertips. In the serene stillness, the movement of their hands resembles a dance. Adjusting the pressure of their hands to introduce air between the rice is as delicate as pressing the keys of an organ.
The 'Sushi Kanesaka,' shining with two Michelin stars in Japan, also shares a similar philosophy. The spirit of 'ikka nyu kon (一握入魂),' infusing the soul into each piece of sushi, has made this place a representative sushi house of Japan. Sushi Kanesaka opened in November last year at the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas in Samsung-dong, showcasing 'Edomae sushi.' Edomae sushi is referred to as sushi made by hand with techniques that originated around the Edo period (1603-1867).
The consideration to convey the true flavors of Japan can be felt throughout the establishment. The Japanese firm 'Itai' (板屋), which has handled the interior of Kanesaka locations worldwide, was responsible for the construction, and the sushi counter was also made with cypress wood imported from Japan. However, what is most important is the effort to fully convey the philosophy of the Japanese headquarters.
The philosophy of Sushi Kanesaka can be summarized in three main points. First, to create sushi that is faithful to its essence. To this end, Sushi Kanesaka emphasizes the importance of the completion of the rice used for sushi, or shari. This belief stems from the idea that the state of the rice determines the quality of the sushi.
Second, to ensure that guests have a perfect experience. Sushi Kanesaka places great importance even on the moment a piece of sushi is presented to a guest. This philosophy, captured in the expression '0.5 seconds of luxury, 0.7 seconds of elegance,' encapsulates the brief time of 0.5 seconds before placing the sushi on the plate and 0.7 seconds after handing it over. Through this subtle difference, it is hoped that the impression left by the sushi will resonate deeply. Lastly, Sushi Kanesaka educates its chefs to possess 'artisan spirit.' The belief is that meals are not merely food, but can help cultivate individuals into better beings.
The charm of Sushi Kanesaka can also be felt in its exceptional taste. Using seasonal ingredients from Korea adds a touch of familiarity. In particular, sushi accompanied with fresh seafood and flavors such as yuzu zest and sea grapes seemed to express a burst of spring. The rich texture that only well-thawed tuna can provide, combined with the delicate flavor of iron and the richness of fat, was truly exquisite. The ability to express the seasons anew with ingredients that each season proudly offers is perhaps one of the greatest charms of sushi.
Chef Tamaro Mitsuhiro, who operates the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas branch, is also striving to convey Kanesaka's unique philosophy. After accumulating over 20 years of experience in Japan, he moved through places like Macau and Singapore before settling in Korea last year. He too aims to convey sincerity through sushi. However, he does not rest on past achievements and seeks to evolve in line with the current situation.
― Please explain about Sushi Kanesaka.
I am Tamaro Mitsuhiro from Sushi Kanesaka. This is a place where one can taste traditional sushi from Japan. It adheres to the principle of creating sushi faithful to its essence, which Kanesaka is pursuing.
― Sushi Kanesaka places great importance on shari; I am curious about that shari.
The vinegar we currently use is imported from Japan. We are striving to implement the recipe of the main store. Before opening the Grand InterContinental Parnas branch, we tested ten varieties of rice and chose the one most similar to the rice used in Japan. It features a slightly firmer texture but less stickiness, and is not overly fragrant.
― What are the advantages unique to the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas branch?
First, it is a well-known and excellent hotel. I believe it aligns with the 'customer satisfaction' that Sushi Kanesaka strives for. The hotel staff also provides good service, so I believe guests will be pleased even before being seated.
― What is the representative sushi of Sushi Kanesaka?
In Japan, we have tuna (maguro), sea urchin (uni), and young horse mackerel. In Japan, there is a saying that one can gauge a restaurant's quality based on the preparation of the young horse mackerel. The taste varies by the method of aging and marinating, making it appealing. I too might be similar to the young horse mackerel, having honed my sushi skills over 20 years of culinary experience. (laughs)
― You emphasized that the essence of sushi is 'shari'; what differentiates Sushi Kanesaka?
We prepare rice once and use it for sushi for only 2 hours. Even if there is leftover rice, we do not use it, as the taste can be affected when the vinegar evaporates. Additionally, we flavor the sushi only with salt and vinegar. While it isn't glamorous, we aim to deliver traditional flavors.
― I am curious about the philosophy of Sushi Kanesaka.
The phrase 'ikka nyu kon (一握入魂)' means to infuse a soul into each piece. We hold each piece with the intention of infusing it with spirit. Thus, one must quickly discern the characteristics of the guests. Whether they frequently drink water or alcohol, if they are female or male, and whether it is a business meeting must be considered when shaping the sushi. The ideal sushi should not fall apart immediately when placed in the mouth, nor should it be too firm. The harmony of flavors with the fish should not be disrupted.
― Are there any adaptations made to fit the local Korean context?
It seems that Korean customers prefer the shari to be shaped a bit smaller. They tend to enjoy stronger flavors as well. Also, I try to use ingredients that align with the seasonal produce of Korea.
― The concept of '0.5 seconds of luxury and 0.7 seconds of elegance' that guests experience is intriguing.
It is the philosophy of the owner. It implies that by taking 0.5 seconds before placing the sushi on the plate and 0.7 seconds after, we can elevate the anticipation for the guests. Instead of just dropping it, we place it slowly to create anticipation and resonance. While it isn't precisely timed, we strive to convey this sensorially.
― What do you prioritize most in cooking?
Hygiene. Since we use raw ingredients, there is a risk of food poisoning if not handled properly. Therefore, I keep my nails trimmed and my hair short. I also handle the fish and vegetables on different cutting boards for each.
― What sushi do you find most enchanting? If you were to express your life through another sushi, what would it be?
It would be the young horse mackerel. Each restaurant has different methods of preparation and aging. In Japan, there's a saying that you can tell the quality of a restaurant by their preparation of young horse mackerel. The taste varies with different aging and marinating methods, making it appealing. I might also be similar to the young horse mackerel; a sushi matured over 20 years of culinary experience. (laughs)
― Please say a word to the guests who visit.
I am working hard to faithfully recreate the flavors of the main store. I personally chose everything from the interior to the dishes. I carry the philosophy of Kanesaka in my heart as I work. I would appreciate a visit from you.