The breathtaking scenery of the sea and coastal cliffs makes Tongyeong in South Gyeongsang Province diverse. Although the sea is generally calm, areas like Hansando and Maemuldo can experience strong currents and high waves depending on the geography. With such ever-changing nature, it's difficult to describe Tongyeong as a singular landscape. Gazing at this sea, where the turbulent waves quickly calm down, naturally evokes a sense of awe toward nature.
The true charm of Tongyeong becomes more apparent on the dining table. The geographical characteristics located at the boundary of Gyeongsang Province and Jeolla Province combine the culinary cultures of both regions, with seasonal seafood like oysters, sea squirts, bream, and eel overflowing in the sea throughout the year. Additionally, the long-standing exchanges with foreign countries, including Japan, have broadened and deepened the flavors of Tongyeong without boundaries. There is a complex umami taste that cannot simply be described as 'delicious.' Locals also refer to it as 'gemi.'
'Gemi' can be simply described as 'the taste that should be there.' It's a lingering flavor that remains at the end of a salty taste, like the shadow of sweetness that stays in the mouth for a long while. If there's someone who knows the taste of this 'gemi' better than anyone else, it's probably Chef Jang Ho-jun. He always emphatically states that he is from Tongyeong. Perhaps what he really wants to convey is that he is someone who understands 'gemi.'
He grew up eating seafood from Tongyeong since childhood. Thanks to his mother, who ran a restaurant, he gained early insight into 'taste.' He mentioned that he was captivated more by handling ingredients and creating things with his hands than by flavoring dishes. The realization that food ultimately begins at the fingertips was his first cooking lesson.
Recently, he has become enamored with crustaceans, especially crabs. The soft flesh beneath their hard exterior and the flavors of the sea that can be felt from the insides are why he has fallen for them. Though they are very attractive ingredients, he finds it unfortunate that they are often overlooked because they are troublesome to prepare. So, while contemplating how to enjoy delicious crustaceans conveniently, he opened 'Negi Live' in Seongsu-dong.
This restaurant themed around crustaceans infuses life into each ingredient as much as its name suggests. Watching the preparation of ingredients like snow crab and king crab in front of your eyes feels more like an experience beyond just 'eating.' True to its name, it feels almost like watching a performance. Moreover, the cooking methods that gradually elevate the flavors of crab shells, entrails, and meat are similar to a narrative structure. Seasonal ingredients are added, allowing for a sense of the seasons.
In particular, the spring menu 'Octopus with clams dressed in sumiso' is a great example. The octopus, cooked at a low temperature of 55 degrees, is chewy, while the clams subtly release the essence of the sea in the mouth. With the addition of rich egg yolk, white miso, vinegar, and mustard, spring fills the mouth in a single bite. The pungent scent of wasabi flowers suppresses the unique fishy smell of the seafood, while the roasted pine nuts leave a lingering richness. While it feels cool on the outside, it is fresh and warm on the inside—just like the spring in Tongyeong.
Another dish, 'Grilled snow crab with beurre blanc sauce,' stands at the intersection of land and sea. The snow crab is grilled over charcoal, allowing a subtle aroma to permeate the shell, and it is topped with a sauce made from butter and mushrooms, showcasing the flavors of both land and sea. The acidity of the vinegar in the sauce balances the richness of the butter, and the snow crab meat crumbles delicately in the mouth. It's an intuitive combination, but by no means simple. To describe the taste, it is certainly 'gemi.'
Chef Jang's direction moving forward is clear. Dishes that are simple yet powerful, intuitive yet never light. Foods that possess 'gemi,' of course. Within that, the scenery and ingredients from his hometown, Tongyeong, will be present. It should be noted that he is preparing to open a place featuring sea eel, the main ingredient, in Tongyeong. Someday, somewhere along the coast of Tongyeong.
Please introduce yourself.
I am Jang Ho-jun, born and raised in Tongyeong. I have almost 20 years of cooking experience. I've primarily worked with Japanese cuisine. Being from Tongyeong, I think I've been greatly influenced by Korean food and Japanese sashimi.
I'm curious about what led you to become a chef.
I think I've always lived surrounded by abundant food. Also, I liked doing things by hand since I was young. My grandfather was a carpenter, and I enjoyed playing with wood when I went home. Eventually, I became captivated by the charm of food, but honestly, I was more focused on the colors than the flavors. It seems I became interested in the act of creating itself.
What is the charm of Tongyeong cuisine?
There are truly abundant good ingredients. That's why I always miss it. The seafood is plentiful. Looking back, I realize that at the time, I didn't know it was precious, but working in cooking makes me think, 'I really lived eating such great things.' Since it's a warm region, the food naturally has a higher salinity. You can also feel the umami that comes from that. Think of fermented shrimp or fish sauce; it's easy to understand.
What kind of place is Negi Live?
Negi Live is a space where I want to assert my ambition as a chef. There are so many talented people that I deeply contemplated establishing this concept. I want to provide expensive crustaceans at an affordable price. In addition to ingredients like snow crab and king crab, I also want to showcase the allure of seasonal ingredients and fresh vegetables. Moreover, everything from ingredient preparation to cooking can be seen. The sight of catching crabs is not common, which customers really enjoy. I hope people see it as not just a place to eat, but as a kind of performance to enjoy.
What is the charm of crustaceans?
It’s primarily about the aroma. The richness of that aroma is quite impactful. However, the downside is that it's bothersome to clean. However, there's no need to worry about that at Negi Live. Everything is already cleaned for you. Crustaceans have different flavors from the meat, entrails, and shells. The meat is rich and tender. The entrails offer tremendous umami. The shell, when grilled, enhances the aroma. I guess the fact that you can experience various charms from just one is the appeal.
Where do you find inspiration for your food?
Firstly, I look at a lot of pictures. Even if it's a cookbook, it's difficult for me to understand Italian or French, so I look at the pictures contained in it. Based on that, I ponder how I can transform it into my own style. I consider what kind of texture to create and what kind of sauce to use. However, these days, I’m trying to simplify things. In my younger days, I thought complicating things would mean no one could imitate me. Now, I find myself going through a process of reduction.
What points do you emphasize when developing a dish?
First of all, it has to be delicious. That's basic. Aside from that, I think image, color, and plating are all very important. Food is not simply sensed through taste alone. All the senses—sight, smell, and touch—matter. Especially since it starts with sight, I pay attention to satisfying the visual aspect. Ultimately, food that looks good is pleasant to eat. (Laughs)
If you have a cooking philosophy, what is it?
A chef should be able to make even the less tasty parts delicious. Anyone can make something tasty with good ingredients. For instance, with sea bream, the belly is delicious, so it can just be grilled nicely. However, parts like the tail and entrails require various techniques. Being able to make these parts delicious too is what makes a true chef, isn't it?
What characteristics define Jang Ho-jun's cooking?
Personally, I love a salty flavor. I consider the umami that comes from salinity to be important. In our Gyeongsang Province dialect, we express this as whether 'gemi' exists or not. I want my cooking to convey that 'gemi.'
If there is a dish that resembles life, what would it be?
Tongyeong's siraekuk (a soup made with siraegi) comes to mind. When you look at siraekuk, you can freely add chives, seaweed, spices, or soy sauce. I feel like I have gone through many trials and errors until now, but I seem to have adapted flexibly to the situation. I think that reflects how my life has been. Moreover, when you order siraekuk in a restaurant, it typically comes out quickly. It's somewhat similar to being impatient. You can also sense the warm image of Tongyeong from my exterior. (Laughs)
On a scale from 1 to 10, where do you think you are in your journey so far?
I think I'm around 3 to 4. Honestly, I feel like it's been quite tough until now. I'd like to move forward more leisurely. I suspect I've been living a rather obsessive life through various startups.
What is your favorite ingredient?
I love sea eel. I believe it could represent Tongyeong. I also plan to open a related establishment in Tongyeong later. I want to showcase the dishes I enjoy. Additionally, I'm also considering opening a Korean hot pot restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. As a Korean, I have a desire to localize the dish of a whole chicken.
Lastly, could you give a closing remark?
Although my appearance may seem rough, I hope people see me as adorable. I am making efforts to approach in a friendly manner. Therefore, I have also started a YouTube channel. I want to give the impression of someone who might cook for you even if you meet at a campsite. Consequently, I want to create a comfortable atmosphere in my establishment. I appreciate everyone's interest.