Challenging one's limits is usually not an easy task. Especially if one is testing those limits on their own. Typically, one tends to give up midway due to self-rationalization that this is enough. Of course, there are difficulties along the way. It is nearly impossible to surpass one's limits without experiencing frustration.
However, the fruits of that effort are sweeter than anything. Just as a marathon runner feels a sense of ecstatic emotion while gasping for breath, surpassing one's limits can be thrilling for anyone. The joy that can be felt at the limits is a privilege that only those who have experienced it can understand, regardless of the field.
There is a chef who challenges limits every time. That is Chef Yoon Nam-no from Deepin. Watching him cook makes one feel the weight of those words. His gaze while cooking is always immersed in the moment. In a kitchen where even a single mistake is intolerable, sensitivity becomes ‘good.’ Obsession with minor details is essential to produce dishes close to perfection. Perhaps that’s why there is a sharp tension in his eyes.
In fact, it has not been long since he began to 'enjoy' that process. Instead, there was a time when he tried to turn away from the joy that cooking brings. The verbal abuse and violence from his senior in the kitchen momentarily made him put down his cooking tools. While the pleas of his colleagues helped him stop wandering, in the end, it was his passion for cooking that drove him. He went to Australia to learn more deeply about food and received awards in various competitions.
His connection to Australia did not end there. During a business trip back to Australia in 2023, he felt another unexpected emotion. He mentioned being shocked by the sight of cattle freely running on the pastures. For the first time, the cows he had only regarded as ‘ingredients’ came to him as living beings. From a static existence to a dynamic one. That small but fundamental change in perception left a significant turning point in his cooking.
To promote the flavor of Aussie Beef, Chef Yoon Nam-no is also active as an ‘Aussie Beef Mates’. You can also find its appeal in the main menu at Deepin. In particular, a dish that combines short rib with carrot and Chevil is one such example.
First, if you slice a well-cooked piece of beef and dip it into the sauce, the unique beef aroma will strongly spread in your mouth. Then the mustard kicks in, and as you chew, the flavors become balanced. The sauce also contains plenty of the umami of beef. Mixing beef fat with chicken broth supplements any potential lack of greasiness. Additionally, the red pepper and spices infused in the sauce wash away the residual taste of the meat in the mouth. Because of the stronger meat aroma, pairing it with wine like Cabernet Sauvignon works well.
He stated that he does not have a specific goal but wants to have a positive influence through cooking. The joy he feels through donations is similar to what cooking brings him. He also wants to widely promote the appeal of Aussie Beef, confident that, much like the mystical feelings he experienced watching the cattle on the pasture, customers will be satisfied once they taste it.
Please introduce yourself.
I’m Yoon Nam-no, the head chef of Deepin. I am also active as an ambassador for Aussie Beef. Deepin has a total of three locations, and I move around to work at each one. Deepin is a ‘Japanese-French’ restaurant that combines Japanese cuisine with French styles.
What kind of place is Deepin?
There is a reason why it's located in Sindang. In Japan, even in shabby alleys, there are 'strong' restaurants, and I wanted to try such an endeavor in Korea. It might not be a glamorous cuisine, but it's an energetic restaurant that everyone can comfortably visit.
I'm curious about the proper way to enjoy Deepin.
Since we are a wine bar, it’s good to enjoy the food with wine. We also use Aussie Beef, which pairs well with red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon.
How did your connection with Aussie Beef begin?
The connection is deeper than I thought. I remember winning an award at a cooking competition held by Aussie Beef in my first year of university. Also, in 2015, during a personal slump, I went to Australia on a working holiday. A particularly intense memory was when I went on a business trip to Queensland in 2023. Until then, I had strongly regarded cattle as merely ‘beef’ ingredients. However, there, I could see cattle running freely. They grew in a clean environment, which made me trust them.
What is the charm of Aussie Beef?
In the case of pasture-raised beef, you can taste the aroma of grass within the meat. I believe it possesses the advantages of both Korean and American beef. Korean beef is known for its rich marbling, while American beef is recognized for its robust flavor, but Aussie Beef has both. Depending on the pasture environment, the amount of marbling and the strength of the grass aroma can vary.
Are there any dishes that utilize this?
Personally, I like cuts that tend to evoke mixed opinions. I prefer strong-flavored cuts like intestines, tongue, and offal, and I have tried many dishes with such ingredients. Steaks made from cover meat and neck are appealing. If cooked well, you can enjoy both the tenderness of the tenderloin and the chewiness of the sirloin. There is also a European-style beef sashimi.
I'm curious about ways to casually enjoy this at home.
It makes me sad that Rump, which was a less commonly used cut 8 to 9 years ago, is now well-known. The competition between restaurants has intensified due to the limited supply. Just kidding (laughs). In fact, slicing it thin in the style of beef sashimi, mixing it with olive oil, and grinding some cheese makes it the most delicious for me personally. If you want a Korean twist, you can make a dipping sauce by mixing 2 parts low-sugar gochujang with 1 part sugar and a suitable amount of mirin or sake. It also works well for sukiyaki. Just mix thinly sliced beef with soy sauce, sugar, and mirin in the right proportions and cook it up.
How are human Yoon Nam-no and chef Yoon Nam-no different?
It is quick to explain using MBTI. Human Yoon Nam-no is ESFP. However, once in the kitchen, he becomes more of a TJ with a planned and cool demeanor. In the kitchen, meticulous planning is necessary. Sometimes, there are unavoidable moments when I have to scold someone, which is burdensome since everyone in our team is precious. However, I dislike causing negative effects on customers even more, so I try to become a voluntary villain.
If you have a cooking philosophy, what is it?
I want to be a guardian in the kitchen. I strive to use seasonal ingredients honestly and to offer expensive ingredients to customers at lower prices. For example, if there’s beef priced at 50,000 won per kilogram, I try not to pay that price and to get it cheaper. It’s certainly not a delightful task, but doing this helps lower the consumer prices in the establishment.
I'm curious about what led you to start cooking.
I didn't start with the mindset of wanting to be a chef. It was a choice made out of concerns for survival. When I was young, my mother ran a small naengmyeon (cold noodle) place, but she was not well. I ended up taking over the management. Using the same ingredients like cucumbers and noodles every day became tedious, so I thought it would be fun to learn other dishes, which led me to learn more. However, the more I studied, the more interesting cooking became.
What does cooking mean to Yoon Nam-no?
It is the only time I can focus. Outside, I enjoy looking at the ceiling and think about various things. In cooking, I have to concentrate at every stage. Anyone who is serious about cooking would feel the same way. For instance, when grilling seaweed, if I lose concentration for just a few seconds, the seaweed can burn completely. The most critical aspect for me is the sauce. Its unit cost can be very high. If high-end cognac and such are used, the cost of just one sauce can exceed 1 million won.
What is your favorite dish?
There are so many. I love Pyongyang naengmyeon and sushi. I feel the same way about beef. I enjoy sauces like sabayon and nantua sauce. Nantua sauce can be viewed as a cream sauce boiled with lobster heads. I like both meat and seafood. I prefer dishes that highlight the characteristics of meat and seafood. For example, using a sauce made from simmering beef bones with beef, or for red snapper, utilizing the bones left over from making steak to better appreciate the flavors of the raw materials.
If you were to symbolize life with a dish, what would come to mind?
It might be abstract, but I love boiling dishes. If you listen closely, each has a different sound. Soybean paste stew and budae jjigae each have their own sounds. Depending on their thickness, they can be bubbling or boiling. Boiling hot dishes might appear aggressive at first glance, but once you eat them, you can also feel their softness. In that sense, I think I resemble onion soup a bit. (laughs)
Finally, do you have any concluding remarks?
Thank you for visiting my establishment. I’ve heard reservations are still challenging to secure. Even if the hype dies down a bit, I hope you continue to visit frequently. I always want to be in the kitchen. I will strive to create interesting dishes.