If asked to name just one of the top fine dining restaurants in Korea, everyone could provide a different answer. This is because each has its own criteria for selecting the best restaurant. However, there is one 'regular restaurant' that consistently comes up in that discussion. It is none other than the Michelin 2-star 'Mingles.'
Mingles, led by Chef Kang Ming-gu, is writing a new history for fine dining in Korean cuisine. Opened in 2014, it was selected as a 1-star restaurant as soon as the first Michelin (Michelin) Guide was introduced in the country. It was raised to 2 stars in 2018 and has maintained that status ever since. In June, it also became the first in Korea to be listed in the 'World's 50 Best Restaurants' (World’s 50 Best Restaurants, W50B).
The name Mingles is inspired by the word 'mingle,' which means 'to mix.' It signifies the harmonious 'mixing' of traditional Korean cuisine, modern Korean cuisine, Spanish, French, and other varied influences in one place. Chef Kang's philosophy regarding Korean cuisine is similar as well. This is evident in one of his signature dishes, bibimbap. The beauty unique to Korean cuisine lies in how various side dishes—salty, sour, and more—come together to create a harmonious flavor.
Another aspect that Chef Kang emphasizes is 'originality.' He believes that it is important to respect the roots while also creating new dishes. Therefore, he places significant importance on the fundamental elements when approaching Korean cuisine. The stronger the roots of a tree, the more its branches reach out straight.
Currently, what he is deeply immersed in is Korea's 'jang.' He explains that jang is a unique aspect of Korea's culinary culture. In fact, jang is an indispensable topic when discussing the authentic flavors of Korean cuisine.
In fact, fermented foods similar to jang can be found not only in Asia but across various regions around the world, including Northern Europe. However, Korean jang is special. The fermentation period and the taste differ significantly based on who makes it. Even for the same person, the taste can vary depending on the regional ingredients used. There are various types, including soy sauce, gochujang, and doenjang. When several types of jang are combined, they produce a distinctive flavor. This aligns with the value of 'harmony' that Mingles aims for.
Chef Kang Ming-gu points out that the charm of Korean cuisine lies in its healthiness and addictiveness. Since Korean cuisine mainly focuses on vegetables, it does not put much burden on the stomach even when consumed. However, it does not rely solely on vegetables. The stimulating flavors of soy sauce, gochujang, and others mix with the mildness of the vegetables to keep the appetite going.
Currently, Chef Kang Ming-gu's goal is to widely promote Korean cuisine. He believes it is too wasteful for only Koreans to know the charm of Korean cuisine. Thus, he is making significant efforts to share the appeal of Korean food abroad. Writing a book titled 'Jang' this year is one such effort. Chef Kang expressed his hope that the name Mingles would be remembered alongside the globalization of Korean cuisine.
- Please briefly describe Mingles.
"Mingles is a place that reinterprets traditional Korean cuisine with a modern sensibility. This year, it celebrates its 10th anniversary. Mingles offers dishes that are based on Korean cuisine but also incorporate creative elements. Additionally, it respects the roots of Korean cuisine while presenting its own style of Korean food that blends modern techniques and sensibilities."
- What is Mingles' signature menu?
"There is a dish called Mingles pot. It is a meal where various aspects of Korean food culture come together in one place. You can experience the broth, dumplings, wraps, and dried ingredients. This menu best describes Mingles' philosophy of harmoniously blending different elements."
- What aspect do you consider most important among the elements that make up Korean cuisine?
"I consider jang to be the most important. Even if I develop Korean dishes in new forms, I must still touch upon the fundamentals. Ultimately, the most important thing is to convey the essence of flavor, even if it is a new dish. In Korean cuisine, jang is what determines that flavor. If you look closely, jang is used in almost all Korean dishes, isn't it? When I first opened Mingles, I studied the usage of jang extensively. Simply put, jang is what defines the characteristics and essence of Korean food."
- What type of jang does Mingles use?
"We use jang from renowned craftsmen in the country. Additionally, we do not use just one type of jang. Different dishes require different jang. Jang is unique; even the same gochujang varies in taste depending on the region it is made in and the fermentation period. Therefore, I am studying the process of making jang and methods of storing it to find the best jang."
- What inspired you to write the book 'Jang'?
"As I thought about how to introduce Korean cuisine, I decided that I should write a book. Every dish needs to respect its fundamentals. Korean cuisine contains various cultures that coexist. It cannot be described in a single narrative, including vegetarian culture, temple food, jang, kimchi, and more. Among them, the jang aspect intrigued me the most. As mentioned earlier, jang has endless charm. This book, written in English, introduces the basic theory, presentation, and usage of jang."
- Are there any other restaurants you operate besides Mingles?
"Currently, I operate three restaurants: Mingles, Festa by Mingoo, and Hansikgu. While Mingles is a restaurant that reinterprets Korean cuisine, Festa by Mingoo aims to enhance the European feel. However, both restaurants strive to maximize flavor using seasonal ingredients. Festa by Mingoo was opened with the help of Banyan Tree Hotel. Additionally, four years ago, I opened a restaurant called Hansikgu in Hong Kong. Since it was opened abroad, the focus is on the authentic flavors of Korean cuisine. Traditional Korean cuisine may be familiar to us, but it is not the same for foreigners."
- What is the charm of Korean cuisine? Additionally, where does Korean cuisine stand globally?
In recent years, Korean culture itself has gained significant attention. I believe that now is the opportunity for Korean food culture to permeate foreign daily lives beyond just a trend. It certainly has the charm to do so. Especially, its differentiating factor comes from 'health.' Compared to other food cultures, Korean cuisine is healthier. Moreover, when tasted, it can be addictive. The status of Korean cuisine is also gradually rising. Previously, dishes like kimchi and bibimbap were overshadowed by Chinese and Japanese cuisine, but now it is different. Along with the Korean Wave, various dishes including bulgogi are becoming well known.
- Mingles is one of the representative restaurants in Seoul; I am curious about your feelings on this.
"I am grateful. However, it also brings a sense of mission. I have developed a desire to let everyone who visits here experience Korean food culture. Given the nature of the industry, there is undoubtedly pressure as evaluations are always ongoing. But that is why I strive to avoid becoming complacent. Customers are discerning. Even a slight lapse results in stringent evaluations. I am constantly pondering how to satisfy the customers who visit Mingles."
- It was selected as the first restaurant in Korea to be in the World's 50 Best Restaurants; I am curious about your feelings on this.
"When I first started working with food, I looked at the restaurants on this list and thought that I wanted to work there. Now, 20 years later, I am so happy that my restaurant is included. Now that Mingles is celebrating its 10th anniversary, I will work even harder to provide new experiences with Korean cuisine. Additionally, I plan to strive for our food culture to be widely recognized worldwide."
☞ Chef Kang Ming-gu, owner of Mingles, is
▲ Current owner chef of Mingles ▲ Current executive chef of Festa by Mingoo ▲ Current owner chef of Hansikgu ▲ Former executive chef of SM KRAZE ▲ Former executive chef of Nobu