It is interesting to hear stories about great artists associated with spontaneous painting. While it may seem easy to create in an instant, one cannot say so when examining the skills required to make it possible. Sometimes, there exist moments when artistic sensibility comes alive amidst disorder, with curves instead of straight lines, breaking free from form. Art born from the flash of a moment is often more exceptional and awe-inspiring.
There is a famous anecdote about Henri Matisse, the master of the French Fauvism movement. When a patron complained that his sketch was too quickly completed, Matisse replied, "It took me 50 years to be able to draw this easily." This illustrates well how the simpler art appears, the deeper the mastery and experience that lies beneath.
Salvador Dali also left an interesting anecdote. While paying for a meal at a fine restaurant, he drew his artwork on the back of the check. No one would dare convert Dali's drawing into cash, but we can imagine the anguish and effort it took to create a masterpiece in that brief moment.
There is a place that resonates with the spirit of these artists, namely the Michelin 2-star restaurant 'AlaprimA' led by Chef Kim Jin-hyuk. AlaprimA means 'spontaneous' and 'at once' in Italian. Here, creative dishes are born daily based on Chef Kim's accumulated culinary experience. The fusion of momentary inspiration and exquisite technique presents a unique culinary experience that AlaprimA prides itself on.
The menu reflects this creative approach. AlaprimA's menu is difficult to define by genre. It is certainly a Japanese dish, yet it feels like Western cuisine, and vice versa. However, its excellent taste is sufficient to indicate the chef's broad experience.
The Carnaroli menu featuring barley shrimp, chestnuts, matsutake mushrooms, and truffles is an example. The deep flavor of the matsutake mushrooms envelops the palate, complemented by the chewy texture of the barley shrimp and Carnaroli rice. The delicate aroma of truffles mingles with the rich flavor of matsutake mushroom fermentation, allowing one to appreciate the mushroom's abundant taste. In particular, the fermentation made with matsutake mushrooms offers a rich flavor akin to cheese, leaving a subtle aftertaste that is both Tongyang and Western.
Dishes utilizing abalone, seaweed, chu-yuja, and red shiso are also noteworthy. The soft, steamed abalone harmonizes with the flavor-rich soft flan made with bacon. Additionally, the sauce using seaweed and clam stock is rich in umami, but the inclusion of chu-yuja peel adds a refreshing note. The red shiso, brown butter, and extra virgin oil enhance the flavor, while the mint aroma of the shiso gently brushes the nose at the end.
Dishes featuring mackerel, dragon fruit, hazelnuts, and seaweed are also intriguing. The soft mackerel, resembling a cross between carpaccio and sashimi, combines with seaweed, deepening the oceanic aroma. The tartness of mustard and the sweetness of hazelnuts create a mysterious flavor. It's hard to describe that taste, which puts one into deep thought, and that process alone is enjoyable. The refreshing balancing act of the mackerel with the dragon fruit awakens the palate, while the dragon fruit's seeds burst in the mouth, providing an interesting texture.
Chef Kim Jin-hyuk expressed a desire for AlaprimA to be remembered as a distinctive place. He hopes that his unique genre will emerge from his improvisational approach, a first attempt that reflects the essence of the establishment. The ten or so dishes served over two hours may feel like mere moments, but the flash of flavors within is truly the culmination of Chef Kim's accumulated expertise.
—Please introduce yourself briefly. What kind of place is AlaprimA?
"I am the owner chef Kim Jin-hyuk, who operates AlaprimA. AlaprimA has been open for over nine years. In fact, it was not opened with grand plans or philosophies. However, at that time, I felt a belief that I must open the ideal establishment I envisioned. I also felt that I should not miss that moment. Initially, I started in a small space across the street, not in the current location."
—What are the characteristics of AlaprimA?
"I do not want to follow the trend. I want to walk my own path. Instead of following the trend of reinterpreting Korean cuisine, I want to prepare the dishes I desire. Thus, Korean cuisine plays a very minor role in AlaprimA. I want to cook freely, and I strive to constantly change the menu. Therefore, there is no specific signature dish, although there might be frequently used ingredients. (Laughter)"
—What kind of dishes are presented at AlaprimA?
"I focus on ingredient-driven cooking. The base is Western cuisine, but I cannot say it is entirely Western. Within the Western category, I use ingredients that are unfamiliar in Korea but are common in Japanese cuisine. Ingredients I frequently use include loach, hamo (sea eel), and okra. I am confident that the food at AlaprimA will provide readers with a new experience. Personally, I believe good cuisine highlights the inherent flavors of the ingredients. The chef's intervention is minimal, allowing the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine. This free approach to cuisine allows for free pairings with the desired beverages like wine and sake. Additionally, as the ambassador for the world-renowned champagne Krug, I keep a variety of hard-to-find selections on hand."
—I am curious about an example.
"With loach, it is not usually prepared in the way it is eaten in Korea. In Korea, the loach is filleted and used in clay pot rice. However, I believe that to truly enjoy the loach, one must utilize its entrails. The loach grows by eating certain aquatic plants, which have a somewhat bitter and spicy taste. Thus, its entrails exhibit a similar flavor. In contrast, the flesh of the loach is sweet; combined with the entrails, it creates a harmonious blend of bitterness and sweetness. It is also good to cook the loach whole using the confit method (slowly cooking in low-temperature oil). There is also Italian-style chilled dessert made with zucchini and melon that can be paired with the hot, deep-fried loach, creating an interesting experience, as the temperature shifts with each spoonful. I believe it can provide a unique experience."
—How do you draw inspiration?
"I receive inspiration 24 hours a day. Many times, sudden inspirations arise. They often come to me while listening to music. I mainly listen to rock music, enjoying U2, and frequently listening to the Rolling Stones. I tend to play music loudly while preparing food, as I believe the dishes reflect the emotional state while listening to music."
—What is your favorite ingredient?
"Recently, it is taro. I find its sticky texture interesting. In fact, I like such ingredients, like okra and natto. Because it is sticky, combining it with other ingredients provides a pleasant 'adhesiveness.' It is also soft. Additionally, I think I like ingredients that evoke a strong sense of seasonality, such as freshly harvested crops and high-quality seafood."
—Within a year of opening, you earned a Michelin 1 star and currently hold 2 stars. What are your thoughts on Michelin stars?
"Personally, I believe that obtaining a 1 star is the most difficult. Like salmon swimming upstream against strong currents, I think it's a marker that one must overcome a significant threshold to achieve. Crossing boundaries, creating something from nothing, is perhaps the most challenging. Of course, the more stars one earns, the better the establishment becomes. While I haven't experienced 3 stars yet, it seems they present 'works that can no longer be touched.' The variability of the menu seems to be less compared to 1 and 2 stars. In fact, I still feel that I have much to improve upon and wish to take more risks and changes."
—If you were to compare your life to a dish, what would you choose?
"A soup made lightly from vegetables. Simply made with salt, water, and vegetables. In fact, I am trying to discard unnecessary aspects in my current life. The cuisine I pursue seems to embody that as well. I do not wish to clutter the flavor with unnecessary ingredients. As mentioned earlier, I enjoy serving dishes to guests with minimal chef intervention to highlight the inherent flavors of the ingredients. Furthermore, the more the flavors of the ingredients can be appreciated, the more it emphasizes the importance of the essence."
—Looking back, how far do you think you have come in your culinary journey? What direction would you like to head in?
"If I were to rate it from 1 to 10, I think I am at about a 6. In fact, there have been difficulties. My motivation dropped significantly during the COVID-19 pandemic. Before that, I felt that I was showing potential, but the pandemic seemed to dampen that momentum. When I was on the verge of despair, I found strength in my team members. I still have much to grow and a strong desire to move upward. For the remaining 4, I want to see the 'final result.' Now, I feel a confidence that I can do it and a sense of being more honest."
—What kind of chef would you like to be remembered as?
"A chef with personality. I do not wish to be an all-around number one, but I would like to receive feedback that there is a unique genre belonging to Kim Jin-hyuk. I hope my unique genre has no comparable standards. Personally, I like the singer Prince. He is indeed versatile, adept at dancing, singing, and playing various instruments. His charisma on stage is unparalleled. However, he was reportedly an introverted person. I admire the energy that emanates from that small, fragile body. I find myself similar. I believe the human Kim Jin-hyuk is introverted. However, I strive to present a different aspect as a chef."
—If there’s a culinary genre you wish to challenge next, what would it be?
"Chinese cuisine. Over the past year, my curiosity has only grown as I traveled to Hong Kong and Shanghai. One of my favorite ingredients is fish maw, which is dried and soaked for use in China. That process enhances its chewiness, and I want to try cooking that. Additionally, I have a desire for ingredients like sea cucumber and dried abalone. It would be delicious to make them in the form of spring rolls, filled with sea eel stock and meat, and deep-fried. It’s a delightful dilemma."
—Please share your final thoughts.
"I want to live in such a way that I have no regrets, even if I were to die tomorrow. Cooking brings me joy. There were times when I worked so hard I felt I could collapse and die, yet that made me think it would be okay to die like this. Cooking gives me extreme pleasure. However, I do not consider myself the absolute best. I simply strive to create dishes that break the mold. I hope that guests come to create new experiences and joyful memories."