'Mariage' is a mysterious yet complex world. The word itself signifies a process of combining or blending different elements, but this combination goes beyond mere merging. It is special in its pursuit of better harmony. The English word 'Marriage' also means '結婚' and is similar in that it involves different people coming together to create new relationships and meanings.
Mariage is one of the concepts frequently mentioned in today's culinary culture. It is also referred to as 'Pairing.' Throughout history, we have placed great importance on the 'harmony' of food. For example, enthusiasts often associate a warm soup dish like hot pot with a refreshing glass of soju. Greasy fried food pairs well with a refreshing beer, while sweet vanilla ice cream goes beautifully with a rich whiskey.
However, the combinations can endlessly expand. They seem to follow certain rules while also being highly personal. For instance, pairing wine with hot pot cannot be deemed incorrect, and adding beer to ice cream cannot be restricted either. Ultimately, Mariage can be viewed as a world of infinite possibilities created by taste preferences and harmony.
There are places in the Korean fine dining industry that understand the importance of this Mariage. One such establishment is 'Vinho,' led by Chef Jeon Seong-bin and Sommelier Kim Jin-ho. While fine dining often operates under the leadership of one chef or sommelier, Vinho stands apart. Here, the chef and sommelier work collaboratively, contemplating better combinations of food and beverages.
The strength of Vinho also comes from its youth. The two leaders are known for their bold experimentation, made possible by their young age. They configured the kitchen to be visible from the front and sides, allowing diners to look inside from outside as well. There is a humorous saying that a four-year age difference does not affect harmony, but the two leaders (born in '92 and '88) also create their own Mariage in terms of age.
Since Vinho is led by a sommelier and a chef working together, both fields are considered equally important. As a result, they tend to think more intensely when devising the menu. Since there are people who do not enjoy alcohol, the dishes must be delicious on their own, and also need to enhance their flavors when paired with other beverages. The opposite is equally true. Finding a great wine that stands out on its own while also enhancing its flavor when paired with food is no easy task.
Vinho's menu, which highlights its appeal well, includes 'Samgyetang' made with young chicken and a dish called 'Eggplant' with giant shrimp. Each dish is excellent on its own, but pairing it with rare wines imported by Sommelier Kim Jin-ho amplifies the synergy.
Vinho's Samgyetang made with quail is notably more tender than chicken. The first bite reveals a distinct smoky flavor from the charcoal. The smoky aroma and the sweet juice of the quail create a mysterious pairing. Additionally, the savory and chewy morel mushrooms add texture. The broth resembles the Samgyetang we know, and with each spoonful, the unique feeling of Korean revitalizing soup is familiar and inviting.
The dish featuring the chewiness of dried eggplant and the sweetness and delicacy of giant shrimp is also a delicacy. The sauce is made from eggplant skin, capturing the aroma unique to eggplant. Grilling the eggplant while pairing it with squid ink and apple creates a sweet yet savory profile. The accompanying Greek wine, Spira, enhances this uniqueness. Although produced in extremely small quantities, Spira is rich in fruity aromas while also boasting the crisp acidity of Sauvignon Blanc. When paired with the dense eggplant sauce, it showcases its special qualities.
The two young owners of Vinho aim to carve their own path for the restaurant. The world-renowned champagne 'Krug' recognized the potential of Vinho and appointed Sommelier Kim as an ambassador. Although the dynamic steps of the young Vinho are bold, countless intense considerations accompany their progress.
If Mariage is the process of different elements blending to create better harmony, Vinho is also a product of the harmony created by these two individuals. The character for 'person' (人) shows that two strokes support and maintain balance. Just as two individuals grow stronger together than alone, there is much anticipation for the future of Vinho they will create.
- Please provide a brief self-introduction.
Jeon Seong-bin (hereafter Jeon): “I am Jeon Seong-bin, the co-representative of Vinho. I have approximately 13 years of cooking experience. I graduated from Tsujimura Culinary School in Japan. I gained experience at LaSime and Florilege, both two-star Michelin restaurants in Japan, as well as at Mingles in Korea. My dining experience spans about 5 years. I believe the allure of fine dining lies not only in its luxurious 'elegance' but also in its corresponding 'flavor.' It is an advantage to be both stylish and delicious.”
Kim Jin-ho (hereafter Kim): “When I was a middle school student, I dreamed of becoming a chef. Initially, my parents were strongly opposed, but that passion grew deeper over time. After serving in the military, I immediately went to Australia. I attended culinary school for about two years. At that time, I did not have the goal of opening a fine dining establishment. However, I had the chance to meet Chef Kang Min-gu from Mingles, where I briefly worked in the kitchen. I wanted to pursue a new challenge here. My path to becoming a sommelier also began from a contemplation of providing better service. I found it frustrating not to be able to answer guests' questions about wines while serving them in the dining area. I received significant assistance from Manager Kim Min-seong of Mingles.”
- What kind of place is Vinho?
Kim: “It’s a space where common goals can coexist with individual pursuits. Vinho seeks to break the mold of fine dining. We are trying many initial approaches. We want to move a step ahead in everything. For example, pairing natural wines can be tricky because the flavors may be different from regular wines and they can be difficult to handle. However, Vinho is different. We offer a variety of wines. Here, one can taste rare wines from around the world, including those from Switzerland and Greece. The atmosphere is also different. We often play rock music from the '70s and '80s.
Jeon: “Initially, I simply named it 'Vinho' by combining the 'Bin' from Jeon Seong-bin and the 'Ho' from Kim Jin-ho. Additionally, 'Vinho' means 'wine' in Portuguese. Vinho seeks a direct taste. I also want to share my memories through food. The Samgyetang made with quail is an example. While anyone can make Samgyetang, I wanted to emphasize the herbal flavor. I aimed to recompose it to give a texture different from chicken, interpreting it in Vinho's own style. I also addressed the downside of possibly being heavy after eating. The interior is designed in a bar format, creating proximity between servers and guests. This allows for matching eye levels between guests and staff to facilitate more intimate conversations. I would appreciate it if you can see it as a place that breaks down barriers.”
- I’m curious about what motivated you to establish Vinho together. What was your first impression of each other?
Jeon: “We first met while working at Mingles. However, I already knew the name of Sommelier Kim prior to our meeting. While running the establishment together, I consistently feel that Sommelier Kim is really driven. He is good at planning and giving direction. He is also known for being level-headed.”
Kim: “Chef Jeon was known as a really good cook. His diligence also drew me in. He has tremendous passion for cooking. I believe someone who is diligent and passionate about cooking can never fail. That’s why I thought it would be a good idea to work together.”
- I am curious about Vinho's signature dishes.
Kim: “It’s the previously mentioned Samgyetang. While made with quail, its pairing method is also unique. While most pair it with red wine, we serve it with white wine. We use Grand Cru aged over 10 years from the Alsace region in France. When you think of Samgyetang, various flavors come to mind. However, the unique herbal note pairs well with traditional liquor. Likewise, it also pairs nicely with high-quality dry Riesling. Additionally, considering the flow of the course, I planned to let the broth's flavors be felt more delicately with white wine.
- Pairing with food is an essential harmony. I am curious whether Vinho tends to think about that Mariage after developing the menu or the opposite.
Jeon: “Sometimes, Sommelier Kim suggests a direction, and I conceive the menu accordingly, and at other times, it’s the reverse. However, we do not solely focus on the harmony of food and beverages. If the food has a particular story, we prepare a wine that fits accordingly.”
Kim: “Chef Jeon tends to leave 'space' for wine when preparing food. The meticulous details are what make Vinho enchanting. For example, one of the first courses is ice cream made from oysters. I try to match the wine with the sweetness of the ice cream, but I’m not only considering sweetness. I'm considering the vineyard where it was cultivated, the characteristics of the producer, and all those factors while selecting the pairing. To maintain this level of detail, I usually make it a point to taste many dishes and wines.”
- Lastly, please give us a closing remark.
Kim: “I thank everyone coming to visit. I hope you have a great experience at Vinho. If you come with an open mind, we will strive to provide you with the best experience.”
Jeon: “I feel the same way. I hope you can experience not just the food and wine at Vinho, but something new. We aim to show you our own atmosphere beyond ordinary dining. We will constantly strive to grow.”