On the 19th at a pop-up store of rice cake brand A at The Hyundai Seoul in Yeongdeungpo District, Seoul. Although they took entry registrations starting one hour before the department store opened, registration had already closed around noon that day. It was because of the "open run" crowd that swarmed before opening.
Around 1 p.m., about 30 people were lined up in front of the pop-up store to pick up rice cakes they had preordered. In customers' hands were the shop's popular product, hobak injeolmi. An employee said the product—pumpkin glutinous rice cake coated with castella crumbs—has been gaining popularity through word of mouth since early this year.
Recently, rice cakes have been emerging as a "hip snack," especially among younger people. Popular stores draw crowds before opening, and online there's even "tteok-getting" battles to buy hit items. The so-called "tteok pilgrimage," in which people travel around to famous rice cake shops nationwide, is also taking root as a new consumer culture.
◇ From open runs to "tteok-getting"… a "tteok pilgrimage" to rice cake shops nationwide
A B brand rice cake shop visited the same day was also busy getting ready for customers. A staffer there said, "Customers start flocking from 10:30 a.m., when the department store opens." The shop mainly sells premium glutinous rice cakes filled with fresh fruit, and recently, those using yogurt have been particularly popular, the person said.
Competition is fierce online as well to get popular rice cakes. As some products quickly sell out right after restocking on major online malls, more consumers are sharing "buying tips." One platform introduced "tteok-getting know-how" on its official social media (SNS) in April. It said you need to hit the order button within about 10 seconds at midnight, the restock time, to improve your chances of buying.
The "tteok pilgrimage" of visiting famous rice cake shops in person is also spreading. People visit stores to find products that break the mold of traditional rice cakes—such as "pizza seolgi," which puts pizza toppings on baekseolgi, and "fresh cream chapssaltteok," which is filled with fresh cream instead of red bean paste—and post proof on SNS. On Instagram, there are more than 5,000 posts with the "tteok pilgrimage" hashtag.
A person surnamed Kim (30), an office worker in Jamsil, Seoul, also often visits stores to buy popular rice cakes. Kim said, "I sometimes do an open run by choosing a time when there are fewer people," adding, "I've always liked rice cakes, and lately there are many products that combine new ingredients like kadaif, dried persimmon, and whole nuts, so it's fun to pick and choose."
◇ Rice cake market has risen for six years… the "Dubai jjondeuk cookie" craze adds momentum
The rice cake market itself has grown steadily since before the recent trend. According to the Ministry of Data and Statistics (MODS) "status of changes in domestic sales by item," domestic sales of rice cake products rose about 65%, from 564.1 billion won in 2018 to 929.1 billion won in 2024. The share of rice cake products in total sales of snacks, bread, candy, and rice cakes also increased over the same period, from 9.08% to 10.16%.
Recently, desserts touting a "chewy texture" have been gaining popularity one after another, bringing rice cakes back into the spotlight. The "Dubai jjondeuk cookie" and the "Shanghai butter tteok," which triggered sellout frenzies, are prime examples. Products that combine the familiar texture of rice cakes with new ingredients and cooking methods are drawing the interest of young consumers.
A food industry official said, "Chewy-textured foods like tteokbokki and fen ho fun sheets have consistently been popular," adding, "What matters now is how freshly and playfully we can reinterpret the 'chewiness' familiar to consumers."
◇ Popularity is concentrated in a few products… traditional rice cake shops are "closing in droves"
However, the recent rice cake boom is not translating into a boom for the entire industry. While consumer interest is concentrating on some popular brands and new dessert-style rice cakes, demand for traditional rice cakes—once sought for holidays and family events—is declining.
In Nakwon-dong, Jongno District, Seoul—once called the "rice cake shop street"—shops have been closing one after another, leaving only a few today. According to the Korea Rice Cake Food Processing Association, about 15% of rice cake shops nationwide have closed over the past five years.
An association official explained, "The workforce is aging rapidly, and the culture of ordering rice cakes for holidays and family events has also waned."
Experts advise using the recent rice cake dessert craze as an opportunity to secure a new consumer base for the traditional rice cake industry. They say it is necessary not just to mix in trendy ingredients, but to reinterpret products in ways that preserve traditional manufacturing methods and strengths while fitting the tastes of young consumers.
Lee Eun-hee, a professor of consumer science at Inha University, said, "We need attempts to develop the craftsmanship embedded in the products while reinterpreting them in modern ways."