On July 31 in the afternoon. Tapgol Park in Jongno District, Seoul, was quiet, likely because of the scorching heat that made it feel close to 33 degrees Celsius. Elderly people gathered at the pavilion were fanning themselves nonstop to cool down. Some sat in small groups on benches or stone seats, chatting or nodding off. In the calm atmosphere, only the sound of a guide explaining the history of Tapgol Park to about 10 foreign tourists could be heard.
A person surnamed Kim, 76, who said they visit Tapgol Park three or four times a week, said, "There are always people who gather here, so I come often even though it's hot," and added, "We no longer play janggi and usually just talk about life before parting."
On the same day, the first floor of Nakwon Arcade, about a 5-minute walk from Tapgol Park, had a completely different vibe. The Tapgol Senior Culture Playground, which opened in February this year, was so crowded that it was hard to find an empty seat.
A year after the janggi and baduk boards that once lined up densely even outside the wall of Tapgol Park in Jongno District disappeared, nearby Nakwon Arcade has established itself as a new "hot place." Unlike the outdoor Tapgol Park, being indoors also makes it a shelter from the sweltering heat.
The baduk and janggi boards that once formed long lines even outside the wall of Tapgol Park all disappeared as of July 31 last year. Although the Tapgol Park rules of use established in 2002 included a ban on recreational activities, full-fledged guidance began only last year.
Jongno District said the walking environment has improved since the guidance, and the cultural asset scenery has become cleaner than before. The number of 112 emergency calls near Tapgol Park, which used to exceed 1,000 a year, is reported to have dropped sharply.
Elderly people who enjoy baduk and janggi have moved to the Tapgol Senior Culture Playground. Inside, where 17 janggi and baduk boards are set up, shouts and laughter like "Hurry up and play" and "Jang!" continued. Quite a few people stood by each table to offer kibitzing.
They say up to 250 people visit the Tapgol Senior Culture Playground in a day. Initially closed on Mondays, it has been open every day except public holidays since March as more visitors came than expected.
According to Seoul's real-time city data, as of 4 p.m. on the 31st in Ikseon-dong, where Tapgol Park and Nakwon Arcade are located, people in their 60s and older accounted for 27%, the largest share. At the same time, the share of people in their 60s and older was higher than in the adjacent Insadong (18.8%) or the Changdeokgung–Jongmyo area (22.1%). This means the area is particularly popular with those in their 60s and older.
In particular, as the heat wave continues, many come to escape the heat. A representative of the Tapgol Senior Culture Playground said, "It's busiest between 12:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m., after lunch, rather than in the morning," and noted, "Many seniors come up from the provinces."
While seniors welcomed the new cultural space, they also said they hope the spaces get larger and more numerous. A Jongno District resident, A, 82, said, "If I come a little late after lunch, there aren't enough seats, so I can only kibitz."
B, 80, who said they visit here three or four times a week from Gwacheon, Gyeonggi Province, also said, "There aren't many places where seniors can rest comfortably," and added, "I hope there will be more spaces in every neighborhood where seniors can talk and spend time together."