On the 15th at a black goat cuisine restaurant in Nowon District, Seoul. The store sign and promotional poster had the phrase "9,900 won" written large. While black goat soup usually costs about 15,000 to 20,000 won per bowl, this place sells it for less than 10,000 won.
Customers started streaming in from 11 a.m., before lunchtime. From 11:30 a.m. to noon alone, 11 parties came in, making it hard to find an empty table inside. Most were middle-aged and older patrons there to boost their health for Chobok, but there were also occasional young customers who looked to be in their 30s. One customer said, "The price is cheap and it tastes good, so I come often."
As high inflation pushes up prices for dining-out menus such as samgyetang, black goat is emerging as a new "value-for-money health food." Under the Korea-Australia free trade agreement (FTA), Australian goat meat enters without a tariff, lowering the price threshold, and restaurants and franchises touting "9,900 won black goat soup" are appearing one after another.
Analysts also say the impending full ban on dog meat consumption next year is shifting some existing demand for boshintang to black goat, helping expand the market.
◇ Consumption doubles in four years… More black goat restaurants in every neighborhood
Domestic consumption of goat meat is rising fast. According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, domestic goat meat consumption in 2024 was 13,708 tons (t), up 24.8%, or 2,722 t, from 10,986 t the previous year. Compared with 6,328 t in 2020, it more than doubled in four years.
Behind the consumption surge is cheap imported goat meat. According to the Korea Rural Economic Institute (KREI), imports of foreign goat meat rose from 1,570 t in 2015 to 8,143 t in 2024, more than a fivefold increase. About 99% of imported goat meat entering the country is from Australia.
Australian goat meat is currently imported tariff-free under the Korea-Australia FTA. Its price is far lower than domestic meat, enabling restaurants to cut prices for black goat soup. Low-priced black goat soup specialists draw customers by using imports to lower the base soup price, then secure profitability by selling higher ticket items such as boiled slices and hot pot.
Related restaurants and franchises are also increasing. A search for "black goat" on the restaurant information portal Diningcode returns about 1,900 restaurants nationwide. Considering businesses not registered on the portal, the actual number of restaurants handling black goat is estimated to be higher.
The Korea Fair Trade Commission's franchise information disclosure shows that six new black goat franchises launched from 2024 through July this year. That already exceeds the four brands launched in the previous four years. As competition intensifies among companies, some brands are putting "9,900 won" front and center to wage a price war.
◇ Boshintang restaurants switch to black goat
The end of dog meat consumption is also cited as a factor expanding the black goat market. Under the Special Act on Ending the Rearing, Slaughter, Distribution and Other Practices for the Purpose of Dog Meat Consumption, enacted in Feb. 2024, from Feb. 7 next year when the grace period ends, rearing, slaughtering, distributing, or selling dogs for the purpose of consumption will be fully banned.
Dog farms that have raised dogs for meat are already shutting down one after another. As of May, there were 272 dog farms nationwide, down more than 80% from 1,537 in Sept. 2024. With the government supporting farm owners' closures and business transitions, the pace of closures is accelerating.
Restaurants selling dog meat boshintang are also closing or changing their menus. According to the Seoul Metropolitan Government, businesses handling dogs for consumption in Seoul fell from 310 at the start of 2024 to 241 now. Some owners are continuing operations by adding black goat soup and hot pot instead of the existing boshintang.
A person surnamed Lee (75), who had sold boshintang for more than 50 years in Dongdaemun District, Seoul, also introduced five new black goat dishes in January this year. Lee said, "It looks like we'll have to close the store that has continued for four generations," and added, "Regulars are disappointed to hear they won't be able to eat the existing boshintang starting next year."
◇ The 18,000 won samgyetang era… Crowds drawn to 9,900 won
Rising dining-out prices are also boosting the popularity of low-priced black goat soup. According to "Chamgagyeok," the comprehensive price information portal of the Korea Consumer Agency (KCA), prices of major dining-out menus in Seoul mostly rose over the past year. Kimbap rose 4.9%, kalguksu 3.2%, and naengmyeon 2.1%.
Samgyetang, a representative summer health food, is also getting more expensive. Last month, the average dining-out price of a bowl of samgyetang in Seoul was 18,154 won, up 2.8% from a year earlier. The national average is about 16,800 won.
A man in his 60s we met at the Nowon District restaurant said, "I like duck, black goat, and dog meat, but they're too expensive to eat often," and added, "I'm satisfied I can eat black goat soup, which usually costs around 18,000 won, at about half the price."
Lee Yeong-ae, a professor of consumer studies at the University of Incheon, said, "With dining-out prices high, 9,900 won black goat soup, which reduces the price burden while also providing nourishment, is a sufficiently attractive option for consumers," and added, "Demand could expand not only among the middle-aged and older, the main consumers of traditional health foods, but also among younger people interested in health and well-being."