There is a restorative ingredient that comes to mind when it starts to get hot: eel. Eel is roughly divided into four kinds—Japanese eel, daggertooth pike conger, conger eel, and hagfish. The signature specialty of Gochang, North Jeolla, pungcheon eel, is Japanese eel. Pungcheon eel is in season from late May, when the heat sets in, through July.
At first glance, the term "pungcheon (wind river)" looks like a regional name for a specialty, but it does not refer to a specific place. It means an estuary where seawater and freshwater meet. When the tide brings seawater inland, wind also blows toward the land, and because eels appear at that time, the name pungcheon eel was given.
Eel is a migratory fish with a unique ecology. It is born in the sea, grows in rivers and streams, then returns to the sea to spawn and end its life. This is the exact opposite of salmon, which come up from the sea into freshwater to spawn.
In particular, the spawning process of eels remains a mystery in biology. No one has directly observed the actual spawning scene or the eggs. Scientists estimate that eels spawn in the deep sea near the Mariana Trench in the Pacific, the deepest part of the ocean. Eels are said to travel along ocean currents, sense Earth's magnetic field, and detect chemicals near the spawning grounds to decide their direction of movement.
Perhaps because they start in the deep sea and climb all the way up rivers, eels are packed with nutrients. Rich in protein, they help boost stamina and relieve fatigue; high in vitamins A and D, they support eye protection and bone health. Abundant omega-3 fatty acids also benefit cardiovascular health. Minerals such as iron, calcium, and phosphorus are plentiful, making eel a valued ingredient for both growing adolescents and older adults.
Eel has long been treated as a delicacy. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty record that pungcheon eel from West Sea regions such as Gochang, Buan, and Yeonggwang was presented to the king. The Annals of King Sukjong include the line, "Eel caught in Pungcheon was offered, and the king enjoyed eating it." The Dongui Bogam also records eel as a restorative food with strong yang energy, explaining that it strengthens the five viscera, treats lung disease, and restores vigor.
Today, pungcheon eel still holds its place as a representative summer restorative. Both the minimally seasoned salt-grilled version and the gochujang-based marinated grill have their appeal. Around Seonunsan in Gochang, eel hot pot simmered with scallion kimchi is considered a delicacy.