Ocheon Port, a harbor in northern Boryeong, South Chungcheong. It is a small port, but it becomes very busy from March to May. That is because the spring delicacy, pen shell, is in season. Ocheon Port is known as Korea's largest production area for pen shells.
The name "pen shell" was given because it resembles "gi (箕)," an old farming tool used to winnow grain. In English, it is "fan shell." The name comes from its resemblance to a hand fan.
Pen shells look distinctly different from other clams. They have glossy dark brown shells, and many exceed 30 cm in size.
Pen shells are plentiful around Boryeong in the West Sea and around Jangheung in the South Sea. An estimated 60% to 70% of the national production comes from Boryeong.
Larger pen shells are rich in taurine and calcium. They are also high in zinc, which is abundant in shellfish. Their rich mineral content helps relieve liver fatigue and hangovers.
Pen shells can be harvested year-round except during the spawning season in July and August. Spring is when they taste best. Their mildly sweet flavor is perfect for perking up a languid spring appetite. After the spawning season, the flesh becomes tougher and less flavorful.
While clams like Manila clams can be gathered from mudflats, pen shells live in somewhat deeper waters, so divers go underwater to harvest them by hand.
They descend with long oxygen hoses to depths of up to 60 m. The deeper they go, the riskier it becomes. In the past, divers working in the West Sea were sometimes attacked by sharks.
Because of this, they cannot work every day. In the West Sea, where the tidal range is large, operations are difficult during spring tides. They can work only during neap tides (when the tidal range is smallest). To protect fishery resources, a quota limits each boat to 2,000 per day.
The most delicious way to enjoy pen shells is "samhap." The combination varies by region. In Boryeong, people eat pen shell adductor muscles with thinly sliced beef brisket and mung bean sprouts, while in Jangheung, they grill premium Korean beef, known as hanwoo, sirloin with shiitake mushrooms and eat them together.
When choosing pen shells, it is best to pick ones with vivid color and a glossy sheen on the shell. If the shell is dull or cracked, it is likely not fresh.
☞ Pen shell adductor muscle butter grill
1) Slice the pen shell adductor muscles and pat them dry. (You can also buy processed adductor products sold on the market.)
2) Soak the adductors in cooking wine (such as Mirim) for 5 to 10 minutes to remove any fishy smell.
3) Melt butter in a pan and add thinly sliced garlic to infuse the aroma.
4) Add the adductors and cook for only 1 to 2 minutes.
5) Season the grilled adductors with salt and pepper.
6) They are good served with grilled cheese.
Tip: Adductor muscles can become tough if overcooked. A quick cook is recommended.