On the 13th, Gwanghwamun Street in Seoul welcomed spring. On the wall of Kyobo Bookstore hangs the phrase "Spring, the miracle we know best." It is a sentence excerpted from poet Kim So-yeon's collection of essays. It describes the seasonal change when all things come back to life as a "miracle."
When spring comes, miracles bloom on the mudflats of the West Sea, too. At the center is the Seocheon webfoot octopus. It is a small-bodied octopod cephalopod with webbing between its legs. Because of this webbing, in English it is called the "webfoot octopus (webfoot octopus)."
The webfoot octopus is known to have inhabited waters near the Korean Peninsula since long ago. It is recorded in Jeong Yak-jeon's "Jasan Eobo." In the past, it was called "juneo (蹲魚)," "jukgeum-eo (竹今魚)," and "mangjo-eo (望潮魚)." Juneo attaches the character "jun (蹲)," meaning crouching, before "eo (魚)," after seeing its crouched form under rocks or inside conch shells.
Jukgeum-eo is said to mean "it tastes best when bamboo shoots are in season." In regional dialects it was called "jukkaemi" and "jjugaemi," which, according to one theory, settled into today's "jjukkumi." Another story says it comes from "jjugurida," the Honam dialect for "to crumple." It is often written as "jjukkumi," but the standard form is "jjukkumi."
Among major production areas, Seocheon in South Chungcheong is considered the top. In Daecheon and Boryeong, and in the South Sea's Wando and Goheung, the webfoot octopus fishery is also active. In particular, in spring, roe-laden webfoot octopuses come into season. Caught between March and May, the "roe-bearing webfoot octopus" captivates gourmets with its chewy texture and savory taste.
The webfoot octopus is a low-calorie but high-protein ingredient. Rich in taurine, it helps with recovery from fatigue and improved concentration. Though smaller than the long arm octopus, it is no less nutritious, and it is more tender in texture than squid. It is larger and chewier than the pygmy squid. When stir-fried, it absorbs seasoning well, and when eaten parboiled or as shabu-shabu, you can enjoy its clean taste.
From the 21st to May 5, the "Camellia Webfoot Octopus Festival" will be held at Maryangjin Port in Seocheon County, South Chungcheong. It is a representative spring festival where visitors can admire crimson camellias and taste in-season webfoot octopus.
The webfoot octopus also served as a "meritorious contributor" in bringing Goryeo-era relics buried on the seabed to light. In 2007, a fisherman catching webfoot octopus off Taean, South Chungcheong, found a celadon plate in his net. Webfoot octopuses lay eggs inside shells such as conch and block the entrance with pebbles, but on that day, a webfoot octopus that had blocked the entrance with a celadon plate was caught in the net. This led to the discovery of the existence of the "Taean ship," a Goryeo-era shipwreck that had slept in the West Sea. From this ship, more than 25,000 relics, including Goryeo celadon, were found. It was a miracle-like gift delivered by the webfoot octopus.
Recently, however, concerns have been raised about the decline of webfoot octopus resources. Overfishing during the spawning period, when they carry eggs, is said to be reducing their numbers. Since 2018, the government has designated May 11 to August each year as the webfoot octopus closed season, banning catches. Some argue that, considering the spawning period, the closed season should start earlier.
Tip: webfoot octopus stir-fry recipe
1) Turn the head inside out and remove the innards and ink sac. The roe can be washed clean and used.
2) Press the head area to remove the beak.
3) Add flour and coarse salt, rub to remove impurities. Rinse under running water, then blanch in boiling water.
4) Slice the onion and carrot thinly, and cut the scallions and chilies on the bias.
5) Heat cooking oil in a pan, stir-fry the onion and scallions first to make scallion oil.
6) Add the sauce and stir-fry, then add the blanched webfoot octopus and the remaining vegetables and stir-fry quickly over high heat.
Sauce: 3 T gochujang, 3 T gochugaru, 2 T soy sauce, 2 T sugar, 1 T minced garlic
7) Finish by drizzling sesame oil and sprinkling toasted sesame seeds at the end.
Tip: For a chewy texture, blanch the webfoot octopus briefly, then stir-fry quickly over high heat.