Episode 4 of the drama "The Tyrant's Chef," which wrapped up last year to strong popularity, features "jaecheop spinach doenjang soup," a dish infused with filial piety. "Queen Dowager Inju" (actor Seo Yi-sook), who left home as a child to enter the palace, longs for the broth her mother made but cannot remember what kind of soup it was.
Michelin-starred chef Yeon Ji-young (actor Lim Yoon-a), who determines that Queen Dowager Inju is from the Seomjin River basin, infers that the key ingredient was jaecheop. Tasting the jaecheop doenjang soup, Queen Dowager Inju recalls the flavor of the broth her mother cooked when she was young and sheds tears, saying it "is filled with filial piety."
There is a small clam that waits for spring where river and sea meet. It is jaecheop. In March, when flowers begin to bloom, jaecheop comes into season.
Jaecheop is also called "river clam" or "gaeng clam." Though small, it has long been loved for its distinctive clean, refreshing taste. The main producing areas are Hadong and Gwangyang, which share the Seomjin River estuary. People in this region enter the river every spring through early summer and rake the riverbed with a "georaengi" (hook) to gather jaecheop.
For jaecheop to inhabit, sand, fresh water, and salinity are needed. Without sand, larvae cannot settle. It is fresh water, but it must have a touch of salt. That is why it grows in brackish zones where river and seawater meet. In Korea, harvesting is only possible in the lower reaches of the Seomjin River.
The "hand-pulled jaecheop fishery" carried out in Hadong County, South Gyeongsang, and Gwangyang City, South Jeolla, is designated National Important Fishery Heritage No. 7. In 2023, it was also designated, for the first time in Korea's fisheries sector, as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) led by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO).
An official at the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries said, "The Seomjin River jaecheop fishery embodies the spirit of coexistence and harmony with nature, so it has great value for preservation and succession," adding, "We plan to support it in various ways so it can be used as tourism content."
Jaecheop is known for being tricky to prepare. Above all, the purging process is crucial. You must soak it for about a day in salt water with salinity similar to seawater to remove dirt and impurities. Change the water occasionally, and after purging, rinse several times under running water.
Even after boiling, you must pick out the meat and rinse it again before it can finally go on the table. It is, in effect, an ingredient that requires care and effort with the eater in mind. The reason the drama chose jaecheop as a "symbol of filial piety" is precisely because of this devotion.
Nutritionally, jaecheop is also considered a top spring health food. There is even a saying, "Jaecheop before Ipchu is liver medicine," and it is known to help relieve hangovers and improve liver function. Rich in taurine and omega-3 fatty acids, it aids blood circulation, while iron and vitamin B12 help prevent anemia.
Hadong County plans to foster jaecheop as a core tourism asset embodying regional identity under the banner "Hadong Seomjin River jaecheop going beyond Korea to the world." It will unveil differentiated products such as ecological experience programs, jaecheop storytelling content, jaecheop trails, and a jaecheop festival.
Hadong County Chief Ha Seung-cheol said, "Seomjin River jaecheop is Hadong's pride and a precious asset," adding, "We will go beyond preserving tradition to modern industrialization and nurture it into a flagship K-food ingredient enjoyed worldwide."
☞ Jaecheop soup recipe
1) Purge jaecheop overnight in salt water. Cover with a black bag or cloth to keep it dark for better results, and in hot weather, purge in the refrigerator.
2) After purging, rinse several times until the water runs clear.
3) Bring water to a boil in a pot, add the jaecheop, skim the foam, and boil for 5–6 minutes.
4) When the jaecheop shells open, remove them, pick out the meat, let the broth settle, then strain through cheesecloth or a sieve to remove sediment.
5) Return the jaecheop meat to the clear broth, bring back to a gentle boil, and season with salt.
6) For a spicier kick, add Cheongyang chili peppers.
※ Purging is more important than anything for jaecheop. If boiled too long, the meat can become tough, so it is best to boil briefly.