There is a clam that fills out more as the winter sea's chill deepens. Fishers along the South and West Seas think of its name as soon as the biting sea wind begins to blow. It is saejogae, a winter delicacy.
Open the shell and the crimson flesh inside resembles a bird's beak. Its name comes from this. It is known for its chewy texture, subtle sweetness, and deep umami.
Among shellfish, saejogae is on the expensive side. Prices fluctuate widely depending on supply, but it generally trades at about 40,000 to 60,000 won per 1 kilogram. On top of that, most of the weight is shell, so the edible flesh is only around 200 grams. The season is short and farming is difficult, limiting production. Because of this, it has nicknames like "noble clam" and "golden clam."
Saejogae are mainly caught along the clear waters of the South Sea coast and around Cheonsuman on the West Sea, where tidal flats are well developed. In particular, Cheonsuman, home to Namdang Port in Hongseong, South Chungcheong, is shallow, has large tidal differences, and is rich in nutrient salts, creating an ideal environment for saejogae. Those grown in waters with proper salinity and nutrients have firm flesh and deep flavor. People who know this taste wait for winter to arrive.
High in protein and low in fat, saejogae is also well suited as a winter health food. It is rich in protein and essential amino acids and contains iron and calcium. In particular, it is known to be high in taurine, which is said to help with fatigue recovery and liver function. With low fat content, it can be enjoyed without burden, but given the price, there is a joke that says, "You may not worry about your waistline, but you will worry about your wallet."
The best-known preparation is shabu-shabu. Dip it briefly for about 1 to 2 seconds in boiling broth and its distinctive sweetness comes alive. It easily turns tough if cooked too long, so a quick blanch is the key. It is also a delicacy as sashimi or in a tangy salad. Few clams taste great without much seasoning. Saejogae stands out among them.
However, even saejogae, the "precious winter guest," has not escaped the effects of climate change. Winter sea temperature rises have increased die-offs. Saejogae are born around May and grow to 6 to 7 centimeters after a year. They grow well at 15 to 25 degrees Celsius, but die-offs begin above 30 degrees. Major producing areas are conducting artificial seed releases and habitat restoration projects, but recovery has been slow.
With die-offs surging the year before last, shipments plunged last winter, but locals say conditions have somewhat improved this winter. A saejogae festival is currently underway at Namdang Port in Hongseong, South Chungcheong. It is a good time to enjoy the taste of the winter sea with family.
☞ Saejogae tangy salad recipe
① Add lemon to boiling water and blanch the saejogae briefly for 1 to 2 seconds.
② Cut water dropwort into 4-centimeter lengths and slice the onion thinly. Halve the cucumber lengthwise, then cut on the bias, and julienne the apple.
③ Mix 2 tablespoons gochujang, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon minced garlic, and 1 teaspoon sesame oil to make the sauce.
④ Put the ingredients in a bowl, toss evenly with the sauce, and finish with a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds.