"When cockles are properly boiled just right, the meat doesn't shrink at all when you shuck them, and a glossy moisture coats the surface. Even with no seasoning at all, cockles made an excellent side dish. That salty, chewy, plump yet slightly gamy taste was also perfect as a bar snack." (Taebaek Mountain Range, by Jo Jung-rae)
While spring is the prime season for most clams, winter is considered peak season for cockles. Belonging to the family Cardiidae, the cockle's scientific name in Korean is "Andami clam." The name comes from the pure Korean word "andamiro," meaning "filled to overflowing."
Cockles are a signature seafood of eastern Honam. The Yeojaman coast spanning Goheung, Boseong, Suncheon, and Yeosu is the largest producing area, with Beolgyo-eup in Boseong County known as the home of cockles. As the novel Taebaek Mountain Range gained nationwide popularity, cockles, too, earned nationwide renown.
What's interesting is that even the name "kkomak" became fixed through literature. The original standard terms were "gomak" or "gomak-hap." It combines "gomak," meaning a small house, and the Sino-Korean character for clam, "hap (蛤)." But when an editor tried to change it to "gomak" at the time of Taebaek Mountain Range's publication, Jo Jung-rae said, "It comes from Jeolla-do, so that region's speech is the right one," insisting on the spelling "kkomak." As "kkomak" became popularized, it naturally took hold as the standard term.
The Beolgyo mudflats sit where the Yellow Sea and the South Sea meet, making them nutrient-rich with a large tidal range. It's the optimal environment for cockles to grow. That's why Beolgyo cockles are firmer and more intensely flavored than those from other regions.
Cockles are high-protein and low-fat, making them good for diets. They are rich in iron, which helps prevent anemia, and taurine and arginine can aid liver function.
"Beolgyo cockles" is a brand registered as Seafood Geographical Indication No. 1. The seafood geographical indication system allows the use of a place name for seafood that reflects the natural and cultural characteristics of a specific region. Other examples include Gijang seaweed, Wando abalone, and Namwon loach.
But even as more consumers seek out cockles as a delicacy, production has plummeted. Annual production of Beolgyo cockles, which reached 20,000 tons in the 1990s, was halved to 8,500 tons in 2010 and fell below 30 tons in 2023. Climate change and overfishing are cited as major reasons.
Local authorities are carrying out restoration projects worth several billion won, such as releasing artificial seed, but mass die-offs during summer heat waves have slowed the recovery.
Boseong County Governor Kim Cheol-woo said, "Through the Beolgyo cockle 'reborn project,' we will systematically grow the fishery asset," adding, "We will promote the value of Beolgyo cockles nationwide, and especially develop the November cockle festival into a national event."
☞ How to boil cockles deliciously
① Purging: Soak cockles in salt water (1 L water + 1 tablespoon salt) for 30–40 minutes, shaking once or twice in the middle.
② Washing: Rub the shells together and rinse clean under running water 2–3 times.
③ Boiling: Pour plenty of water into a pot and, when it boils, add the cockles. Boil on high heat for only 3–4 minutes, and turn off the heat as soon as the shells open. (If you boil them too long, they get tough.)
④ Cooling: Scoop them out and drain in a strainer to cool naturally. (Do not rinse immediately in cold water.)
⑤ Prepping: Twist the shells slightly to open, or place in a bowl and rub with chopsticks to separate only the meat.