"Properly well-boiled cockles don't shrink at all when you shell them, and they gleam with moisture. Even without any seasoning, cockles made an excellent side dish. That salty, chewy, slightly plump, slightly briny taste also made them perfect as a bar snack." (Taebaek Mountains, by Jo Jung-rae)
While spring is the peak season for most shellfish, cockles are considered in season in winter. Belonging to the family of stone clams, the scientific name for cockles is "Andamijogae." The name comes from the pure Korean word "andamiro," meaning "filled to overflowing."
Cockles are a representative seafood of eastern Honam. The Yeojaman coast stretching through Goheung, Boseong, Suncheon, and Yeosu is the largest producing area, and especially Beolgyo-eup in Boseong County is known as the home of cockles. As the novel Taebaek Mountains gained nationwide popularity, cockles also rose to national fame.
What is interesting is that even the name "kkomak" became fixed through the novel. The original standard terms were "gomak" or "gomak-hap." It combines "gomak," meaning a small dwelling, with the Sino-Korean character for clam, "hap (蛤)." But when the editor tried to change it to "gomak" at the time of Taebaek Mountains' publication, Jo Jung-rae said, "Since it comes from Jeolla Province, the local term is the correct one," and insisted on "kkomak." As "kkomak" became popularized, it naturally took hold as the standard term.
The Beolgyo mudflats sit where the Yellow Sea and South Sea meet, rich in nutrients with a large tidal range. It is the optimal environment for cockles to grow. That is why Beolgyo cockles have firmer flesh and a richer taste than those from other regions.
Cockles are high-protein and low-fat, making them good for dieting. They are rich in iron, which helps prevent anemia, and taurine and arginine are effective for improving liver function.
"Beolgyo cockles" is a brand registered as Seafood Geographical Indication No. 1. The seafood geographical indication system allows the use of place names for seafood that reflects a specific region's natural and cultural characteristics. In addition to Beolgyo cockles, there are Gijang seaweed, Wando abalone, and Namwon loaches.
But even as more consumers seek out cockles as a delicacy, output is plunging. Annual production of Beolgyo cockles, which reached 20,000 tons in the 1990s, was halved to 8,500 tons in 2010 and fell below 30 tons in 2023. Climate change and overfishing are cited as the main causes.
Local authorities are pursuing restoration projects worth billions of won, including releasing artificial seedlings, but frequent die-offs during summer heat waves are slowing recovery.
Boseong County Chief Kim Cheol-woo said, "Through the Beolgyo cockles 'reborn project,' we will systematically grow the fishery asset," adding, "We will promote the value of Beolgyo cockles nationwide and, in particular, develop the cockle festival in Nov. into a nationwide event."
☞ How to boil cockles deliciously
① Purging: Soak cockles in salt water (1L water + 1 tablespoon salt) for 30–40 minutes, shaking once or twice in between.
② Washing: Rub the shells against each other and rinse clean under running water 2–3 times.
③ Boiling: Pour plenty of water into a pot, and when it boils, add the cockles. Boil over high heat for only 3–4 minutes, and turn off the heat as soon as the shells open. (Boiling too long makes them tough.)
④ Cooling: Scoop them out and drain in a sieve to cool naturally. (Do not rinse immediately in cold water.)
⑤ Prepping: Twist the shells slightly to open, or place them in a bowl and rub with chopsticks to separate only the meat.