The Sinjeung dongguk yeoji seungnam, a nationwide geographical record compiled during the reign of King Jungjong of Joseon, notes that "ja-hae" (purple crab) was found in 11 areas across Gyeongsang, Gangwon, and Hamgyong provinces. The "ja-hae" listed there refers to red snow crab and snow crab. The 11 areas include Yeongdeok.

The story of Yeongdeok snow crab is also handed down orally. In the early Joseon period, local specialties were sent to Hanyang and placed on the king's royal table. At the time, there was criticism that the king's appearance while eating snow crab did not look dignified. In particular, it was said to be unsightly to see snow crab meat on the royal face, so snow crab was not placed on the royal table for a time.

However, the king missed the taste of snow crab and ordered a retainer to bring it again, and the retainer is said to have gone as far as Yeongdeok to find it. The name given to the crab then was "juk-hae" (bamboo crab) because its legs resembled bamboo. It is also said that the name we use now, "dae-ge," did not come from the character for "big" (大) but originated from "bamboo."

Actor Shin Goo, star of You Know the Taste of Crab, introduces Yeongdeok snow crabs. /Courtesy of Yeongdeok County

Yeongdeok snow crab became famous like a proper noun in the 1950s when a local seafood processor began making snow crab canned goods. The local government also began promoting snow crab as Yeongdeok's signature specialty. Since 1998, the "Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival" has been held every April around Ganggu Port.

Snow crab fishing begins in November, when the cold wind starts to blow. In the Yeongdeok area, nearshore snow crab fishing runs from November to May of the following year. From June to October, a closed season is strictly observed to conserve fishery resources.

Fishermen catch snow crabs in waters near Yeongdeok. /Courtesy of Yeongdeok County·The Academy of Korean Studies (AKS)

Yeongdeok snow crab inhabits the clean sea's sandy bottom at depths of 200–400 meters. Its shell is thin, but the meat is full. Snow crab is a treasure trove of nutrition packed with essential amino acids such as calcium, phosphorus, and iron. In particular, it is rich in minerals, which help prevent aging and support children's growth and development.

There is also a saying, "Even if you eat an entire cow, no trace remains, but if you eat just one small snow crab, you can't hide it." It means the aroma of boiled snow crab is strong and lingers.

Ganggu Port in Yeongdeok is the heartland of Yeongdeok snow crab. When the snow crab season arrives, the port is crowded with fishing boats. The "Yeongdeok Snow Crab Street," created near Ganggu Port, brings together about 100 snow crab shops along a 3-kilometer stretch, drawing many gourmets who love snow crab.

Yeongdeok County Chief Kim Gwang-yeol said, "Yeongdeok snow crab is not simply a local specialty but the history and pride of Yeongdeok residents that has continued for a thousand years," adding, "We will spare no effort to preserve Yeongdeok snow crab, which has elevated the brand value of Yeongdeok and driven the local economy, and to build a sustainable marine ecosystem."

Yeongdeok snow crab. /Courtesy of Yeongdeok County

☞ Yeongdeok snow crab recipe

① Pour only 2–3 cm of water into the bottom of a pot, place a steamer rack (or a plate) on top, steam for 20 minutes after the water boils and steam rises, then turn off the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes.

② When steaming the crab, place it belly up toward the sky so the innards escape less and you can enjoy a richer flavor.

③ After the steamed snow crab cools completely, wipe off moisture with a paper towel, seal it in plastic wrap or a zip bag, and store it in the refrigerator. Refrigeration is recommended for 1–2 days, and freezing within 3 weeks.

④ Thaw slowly in the refrigerator, and for reheating, microwave for just 1 minute.

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