PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide), known in dermatology clinics as the "salmon injection," has become a hit in the global cosmetics market, prompting the beauty industry to push next-generation ingredients. With PDRN established as a representative K-beauty ingredient, products highlighting less familiar ingredients such as tranexamic acid (TXA), azelaic acid, and poly-D,L-lactic acid (PDLLA) have recently drawn attention.
As of the 7th, industry sources said Anua, a beauty brand run by The Founders, is strengthening its ingredient-based lineup by introducing an azelaic acid product following PDRN. Azelaic acid is used for sebum and blemish care and skin tone improvement, and has also been used in pharmaceuticals such as acne treatments.
Other brands are also releasing products using azelaic acid. SKIN1004 of Craver Corporation in April launched a global-only product for North America, Europe, and Japan, "Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule." Anua's Azelaic Serum ranked among the top sellers in "Beauty & Personal Care" during Amazon Prime Day in the United States in July.
There are also more products using TXA. TXA is an ingredient used to improve melasma and hyperpigmentation, first used in pharmaceuticals and recently gaining attention as a cosmetic raw material. Medicube of APR(278470) introduced TXA products following its PDRN-led Pink Line. Anua is also selling serums and pads containing TXA and niacinamide.
At Olive Young, TXA cosmetics are easy to find. Beyond serums and pads, there are various types including sunscreens and mists. Celimax is selling TXA pads, sunscreens, and sheet masks. goodal released "Green Tangerine Vita C E TXA" serum and mist, and CNP unveiled an ampoule containing both PDRN and TXA.
PDRN, a fragment of DNA extracted from salmon, was primarily used for dermatology procedures or specialized pharmaceuticals aimed at skin regeneration and recovery, but in recent years has expanded into cosmetics. Especially overseas, where many consumers search for products based on skin concerns or desired ingredients rather than brand awareness, the ingredient itself is becoming a key factor in promoting products.
In the past, relatively familiar raw materials such as cica and houttuynia cordata were popular, but recently there has been a growing trend of listing professional ingredient names like PDRN, TXA, and azelaic acid, along with specific concentrations, in product names.
In fact, Amorepacific's analysis of U.S. Amazon search data in November last year found that searches for azelaic acid-related keywords rose 228% year over year, and TXA rose 121.7%. Searches for keywords including ingredient concentrations, such as "azelaic acid 10%" and "azelaic acid 20%," increased 108.59% and 61.84%, respectively, from the previous quarter.
Cases are continuing in which ingredients known through dermatology procedures expand into cosmetics, as with PDRN. The medical aesthetics corporations VAIM in March launched the "Juvelook Skincare" brand. Leveraging PDLLA, the core material of Juvelook—known in dermatology clinics as a procedure that helps collagen production—it released an essence, ampoule, mask, and cream.
Exosomes, cited as a next-generation skin booster ingredient, are also being used in cosmetics. Exosomes are substances that transmit signals between cells and are known to help skin recovery and collagen production. Tom sells "Exosome Boost Ampoule," and WellDerma is selling a mist containing both PDRN and exosomes.
Cosmetics distribution corporations SILICON2(257720) highlighted shifts in ingredient trends in its first-quarter IR materials this year. Following houttuynia cordata, Needle Shot, and collagen gel, it presented PDRN and TXA as recent major K-beauty trends. For the next trends, it cited azelaic acid, kojic acid, and bubble serums. Kojic acid is known to inhibit melanin production to improve melasma and blemishes and to have antioxidant effects.
Go So-hyun, a marketer at Amorepacific, said, "The ingredient market is changing so fast that yesterday and today are different, and an ingredient that is growing could become a fiercely competitive market in a few months," and added, "It is important to quickly identify customer demand, launch products in a timely manner, and expand lineups at speed."