"In the past, Korean consumers preferred heavy wines with buttery, pronounced sweetness. But the market is clearly changing. As drinking decreases among younger generations, they are looking for wine styles that are more delicate and easy to drink."
Antonio Cesari, Oner of Brigaldara, a winery in Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, said this at a press briefing held at WSA Wine Academy in Gangnam-gu, Seoul, on the 4th. Brigaldara is an Italian winery imported and distributed in Korea by Shinsegae L&B.
Cesari emphasized that, in line with changing consumer tastes, it is important to make wines that can be enjoyed comfortably with food rather than heavy, concentrated wines. Even in Amarone, which represents Brigaldara, the focus is on balance among acidity, aroma, and alcohol rather than traditional "heft."
The name Brigaldara appears in documents dating back to the 1100s. The Cesari family acquired the property in 1928 and began operating a farm, and has continued as a family-run business since. Antonio, born in 1990, is the 4th-generation Oner and now leads the winery with his older brother, Lamberto Cesari.
Brigaldara cultivates vineyards on 48 of its roughly 120 hectares (ha) of farmland. It grows grapes at different altitudes and soils in areas such as Valpolicella Classico, Valpantena, and eastern Valpolicella to capture each area's characteristics in its wines. It was first introduced in Korea in 2019, marking the seventh year this year.
Brigaldara's winemaking philosophy can be summed up as "balance over power." Amarone undergoes the appassimento process, in which harvested grapes are dried for a set period. As water evaporates, sugar, aroma, and flavor concentrate, typically resulting in higher alcohol and a weighty texture.
While following this traditional method, Brigaldara aims to reduce excessive concentration or sweetness and highlight acidity and aroma. Cesari said, "I don't want to make an Amarone that is merely heavy, sticky, and sweet," adding, "Wine should go with food. Rather than a wine you finish after one glass, we aim for a style that lets you naturally reach for the next glass over a meal."
Residual sugar in Brigaldara Amarone is about 2g per liter (L). It is lower than the 10–12g typical of Amarone that Cesari described. He said, "Although Amarone characteristically has high alcohol, even around 16%, it is important to balance acidity, aroma, and structure so alcohol doesn't stick out."
A site that exemplifies this philosophy is the Case Vecie vineyard, located at about 450 meters above sea level in the Grezzana area. Influenced by surrounding forests, winds, and large diurnal shifts, grapes ripen slowly there, reaching maturity about 20–25 days later than other areas. This helps preserve acidity and aroma even at higher temperatures. Cesari said, "We took a risk to secure vineyards on higher hills in preparation for climate change," adding, "At higher elevations, we can reduce risks from rapid temperature fluctuations and ripen grapes in balance."
Case Vecie produces Valpolicella Superiore Case Vecie alongside Amarone. Using indigenous varieties such as Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella, the focus is on making Valpolicella not a simple entry-level wine but one that pairs broadly with food.
Producing the white wine Soave in a region traditionally renowned for red wine is also a new endeavor. It uses 100% Garganega, and to preserve the grapes' freshness, it is harvested and pressed quickly at low temperatures while minimizing oxygen contact. From the single vineyard Cavolo, set on calcareous soils at about 250 meters above sea level, the winery makes Amarone with floral aromas and a refined style.
He also emphasized the importance of when to drink wine. Brigaldara releases its Amarone to the market after aging it for about four years at minimum.
He said, "In Korea, many people drink wine immediately after purchase, but Brigaldara wines become much softer after at least four years, or about six years depending on the product," adding, "In a market where demand for heavy, strong wines is declining, the delicacy and balance we have long pursued will be our strength."