"German wine has many unfamiliar terms that can be a barrier to entry for Korean consumers. But wine culture is maturing, and consumers are looking for better wine even if they drink less, so German Riesling can also draw attention."
Oliver Haag, the owner and winemaker of Fritz Haag in Germany's Mosel region, said this at a press briefing and master class held on the 24th in Seoul's Gangnam District at Dooun, NARA CELLAR's wine cultural complex space. NARA CELLAR has been importing and distributing seven Fritz Haag wines since May.
He said, "Riesling, which has high acidity and is not excessively heavy, also fits well with the consumption trend that favors healthy food and light drinking." Riesling is Germany's representative white grape variety.
Fritz Haag is a winery located in Brauneberg in the middle Mosel of Germany. It first appeared in documents in 1605, and Oliver Haag has run it with his wife, Jessica Haag, since 2005. The current vineyard area is about 29.65 hectares (ha), and the flagship sites are Brauneberger Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr.
Fritz Haag's vineyards lie on steep slopes formed along the Mosel River. With slopes reaching up to 80%, machine work is difficult, so grapes are harvested by hand. The soil consists of weathered slate. It drains well and releases heat absorbed during the day at night, helping grapes ripen even in a cool climate.
Oliver Haag said, "Riesling, steep slopes, and handwork are elements that have shaped Fritz Haag over generations," adding, "Slate soils give the wines Mosel's distinctive minerality."
Fritz Haag produces a range of styles that Riesling can express, from dry Trocken to off-dry, Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, and noble rot wines. Fermentation uses native yeast, and both stainless steel tanks and old large oak casks are employed depending on the wine's character. This is to prevent vanilla or toast notes from new oak from masking Riesling's fruit, acidity, and the soil's traits. Extended lees contact adds texture and complexity.
Another hallmark of Fritz Haag is that it continues to produce relatively lower-priced Kabinett and Spätlese from top vineyards. Rather than focusing only on high-priced dry wines, it aims to preserve the Mosel's traditional Riesling styles.
Oliver Haag said, "We are not a boutique winery that makes only some high-priced products," adding, "Making reasonably priced Kabinett and Spätlese from good vineyards is the tradition of German Riesling." He explained that Fritz Haag's Kabinett and Spätlese have low alcohol, in the 7–8% range, but can age for a long time thanks to their high acidity.
He pointed to low alcohol and the balance of sweetness and acidity as a meeting point with Korean food. He said, "The sweetness of Spätlese gently tames the pungent flavors that come from garlic or onions," adding, "It can also pair well with Korean dishes that have complex heat and aromas." He added that when served cold, the acidity and liveliness are emphasized, and as the temperature rises a bit, the fruit flavors and texture become more pronounced.
Climate change is also affecting wine production in the Mosel. In the cool mountain region of the Mosel, rising temperatures sometimes bring the positive effect of grapes ripening more reliably than in the past. The problem is that extreme weather events such as hail, frost, and heavy rain are becoming more frequent than the rise in average temperature itself.
Oliver Haag said, "In the past we harvested in mid-October, but in recent years there are vintages when we start in mid-September," adding, "We increase staffing to finish harvest in a short period, and we pick Kabinett earlier than before to preserve the acidity and freshness that Mosel wine has."
He saw the contraction of the global wine market and the decline in alcohol consumption among younger generations as both a crisis and an opportunity. Consumers may move away from drinking a lot of cheap wine and toward choosing wines with clear origins and quality.
Oliver Haag said, "In the past, German wine was the most highly regarded in the world, but its industrial base collapsed through two world wars," adding, "However, the quality of German wine has not declined. If we maintain good quality and price competitiveness, there will come a time when Riesling is in the spotlight again."