Valpolicella, the hilly area of the Veneto region in Italy, is a wine region where Verona and Venice nobles built and stayed in country estates. Venice nobles amassed immense wealth through maritime trade, but from the 15th to 16th centuries they also actively invested in mainland agriculture. In the process, a noble villa culture known as the "Veneto villa" took shape in Valpolicella and across Veneto.

These estates were not merely vacation villas. While nobles spent summers there socializing, they also ran vineyards and farms and produced wine as revenue bases. Villas influenced by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio featured geometric symmetry and proportion and facades in harmony with the natural landscape. In the main building, which reinterpreted the style of ancient temples, nobles held social and cultural activities, and in the annexes, consolidated in colonnaded form, there were grain storages, wine cellars, and farm facilities.

The development of the wine industry in Valpolicella is tied to this geographic and cultural backdrop. The area has large diurnal temperature swings and dry air. Producers stored harvested grapes for several months in well-ventilated attics or drying rooms to slowly evaporate moisture. This method of drying grapes to concentrate sugars and flavors is appassimento. The flagship wine born from it is Amarone, regarded as a symbol of Italy's premium red wines.

If Amarone is Valpolicella's glamorous face, Ripasso is a wine that began with more practical ingenuity. In the past, local farmers noted that the skins left after making Amarone still held aroma and flavor. They passed the basic Valpolicella wine over these grape skins for a second fermentation, and this method became the origin of today's Ripasso. In Italian, ripasso means "to pass through again."

Graphic=Son Min-gyun

At first it was close to a practical way to use leftover byproducts, but over time Ripasso established itself as another signature style of Valpolicella. Wines that go through refermentation are darker than standard Valpolicella, with richer texture and added nuances of spice and dried fruit. It is sometimes called a "baby Amarone" because it is less heavy than Amarone but deeper than standard Valpolicella. Ripasso was officially recognized as an Italian DOC in 2007.

One producer carrying on this tradition is Nicolis. Nicolis is a family-run winery in San Pietro in Cariano near Verona. Since its founding in 1951, it has made wines centered on Valpolicella's indigenous varieties. While maintaining the region's traditional winemaking methods, it is known for emphasizing balance and food-friendliness over excessive weight.

Its flagship wine is "Seccal Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore." It blends 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and 5% Croatina. Grapes are harvested in October, and the wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation for 12 days in stainless steel tanks using native yeasts. At the same time, for Amarone production, separately selected grapes are dried for three to four months in dedicated drying rooms in the appassimento process.

In late winter, after Amarone vinification ends, the base wine is added to the remaining grape skins for another eight days of spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It is then aged for 16 months in oak barrels and released after an additional four months of bottle aging.

In the glass, a deep ruby red catches the eye. On the nose, ripe cherry and plum are followed by subtle spice. On the palate, soft tannins and a balanced texture come through. It pairs well with antipasti, a range of meat dishes, and cheeses. Nicolis Seccal Ripasso won the grand prize in the Old World red wine category at the 2026 Korea Wine & Spirits Awards. The domestic importer is Trend International.

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