For a long time, the standard in the sparkling wine market was France's Champagne. But the global market has clearly been shifting recently. Champagne still symbolizes premium sparkling, but traditional-method sparkling wines from other regions—Crémant made outside Champagne, Italy's Prosecco, English sparkling wine, and Spain's Cava—are gaining presence. Due to high inflation and changing consumer tastes, more people are seeking "alternatives with quality and character."
Amid this trend, the Cava producer "Roger Goulart" from Spain's Penedès region has been introduced to the domestic market. NARA CELLAR, a domestic wine importer, held a Roger Goulart seminar at NARA CELLAR Reserve in Gangnam-gu, Seoul, on the 22nd of last month and unveiled the top-tier limited Cava "Roger Goulart The Roger Mark II 2017."
◇ Aged 75 months in a cellar 30 meters underground
According to NARA CELLAR on the 13th, The Roger Mark II 2017 is a rare limited edition with a production of fewer than 5,000 bottles. The domestic allocation is 240 bottles, sold only at NARA CELLAR Reserve and its directly managed stores.
According to Comité Champagne, the association of Champagne producers in France, Champagne shipments in 2024 were 271.4 million bottles, down 9.2% from the previous year. Domestic shipments in France fell 7.2%, and exports decreased 10.8%. In this environment, Spain's Cava sector is strengthening its premium strategy and shedding its image as "value-for-money sparkling." Cava is a traditional-method sparkling wine made in Spain with a second fermentation in the bottle, like Champagne.
In particular, the higher tier "Guarda Superior" within Cava is expanding its foothold in the premium sparkling market by emphasizing long aging, organic production, and regional subdivision. Starting last year, it must meet a 100% organic standard and include a vintage statement and vineyards at least 10 years old.
Roger Goulart is a Cava producer that began in 1882 in Penedès, Catalonia, Spain. Eduard Capdevilla, export manager at C.V.N.E., said at a briefing, "Legally, Cava can be released after at least nine months of bottle aging, but Roger Goulart ages even its entry-level wines longer than that."
For standard-grade Cava, it can be released after at least nine months of bottle aging. Roger Goulart's Brut Millésimé is aged about half a year longer before release. The aim is to add maturity, freshness, and depth.
◇ Indigenous varieties, plus Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Roger Goulart's greatest asset is its underground cellar. The tunnel-shaped cellar, about 30 meters deep and 1 kilometer long, maintains a year-round temperature around 14–15 degrees and about 85% humidity. In an environment less affected by light and vibration, the wine matures slowly. Manager Capdevilla said, "Inspired by the méthode champenoise, we do everything by hand and produce in the traditional method." The longer the lees contact in the bottle, the softer the bubbles become, and aromas of brioche, toasted bread, and nuts layer over the fruit.
The grapes come from Alt Penedès. Alt Penedès means "high Penedès" and includes high-altitude vineyards at 350–700 meters above sea level.
The difference also shows in the varietal makeup. Cava's traditional varieties are Xarel·lo, Macabeo, and Parellada. Centered on these indigenous grapes, Roger Goulart adds Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to certain premium lines such as The Roger Mark II. Chardonnay gives the wine body and breadth, while Pinot Noir contributes acidity and structure, enhancing long-aging potential.
Manager Capdevilla said, "In many cases, only indigenous varieties are used in Cava," adding, "It's not easy to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Spain's climate and soils." He noted that some wineries have taken on this challenge, judging that including varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir would help Cava remain competitive in international markets.
He said, "We harvest all grapes by hand," and "we pick in the cool early morning to preserve acidity."
The newly released domestic wine "The Roger Mark II 2017" most clearly embodies Roger Goulart's aging philosophy. It is produced only in years judged to be good vintages. It is aged on the lees in bottle for at least 75 months. Considering that another premium line from Roger Goulart, "Gran Reserva Josep Valls," is aged at least 36 months, this is more than twice as long.
In the domestic wine market, premium Cava is still in the early stage of establishing itself. The fact that NARA CELLAR imported a limited edition like The Roger Mark II less than a year after it began selling Roger Goulart can be seen as a move aimed at the potential of this market.
A NARA CELLAR official said, "The 'The Roger' series is Roger Goulart's top-tier lineup, and this The Roger Mark II is the second edition following the first vintage, 'Mark I (2013),'" adding, "We will set a new standard for premium Cava."