BTS drew fresh attention to the three leading K-fashion designer brands known as "U-Joon-Song" (Wooyoungmi, Juun.J, and Songzio) after wearing outfits by domestic designer brand Songzio on its comeback stage. Centered in Paris, France, these brands have built their presence overseas and, in step with the "new luxury" trend, are expanding their standing in the global fashion market.
On the 21st in Gwanghwamun Square in Seoul, BTS wore outfits made by Songzio for its comeback stage. The group was said to have chosen a brand that could highlight Korean culture and identity in line with the album concept and performance characteristics. Founded in 1993, Songzio is a domestic designer brand with headquarters in Seoul and Paris.
Right after the performance, attention focused on Song Jae-woo, the current CEO and designer and the son of founder Song Ji-woo. He drew notice by unveiling the outfit concept on his social media and also did an interview with the New York Times (NYT). BTS has worn Songzio outfits in the past, but this is the first time a collection was conceived from scratch specifically for the stage.
Songzio, together with Wooyoungmi and Juun.J, is referred to as "U-Joon-Song," forming the three-strong structure of domestic designer brands. All three, having cemented their footing in Paris, are recognized as high-end contemporary brands known as new luxury in the global fashion market.
In the fashion industry lately, demand is rising for new luxury—young, trendy premium brands—over traditional luxury. As a preference spreads for brands with individuality and design identity, moving away from logo-centric conspicuous consumption, U-Joon-Song is also seen as having expanded its influence.
In Korea's premium menswear market, a generational shift is also being detected, with the representative group moving from "Sol-Ta-Si" (Solid Homme, Time Homme, System Homme) to U-Joon-Song. Analysts say the center of gravity is shifting from contemporary brands that once grew mainly through domestic department stores to designer brands recognized in the global market.
Wooyoungmi is a brand that first performed better overseas than at home. Based in Paris, the home of fashion, it secured a global distribution network and recognition. It opened the first store by a domestic brand on Rue Saint-Honoré, one of the world's most prestigious luxury streets in Paris, and in 2020 ranked No. 1 in sales at the men's hall of Le Bon Marché, one of France's three major department stores.
Juun.J, owned by Samsung C&T's fashion division, has also pushed to penetrate the global market. The brand, first unveiled by designer Jung Wook-jun at Paris Fashion Week in 2007, was acquired by Samsung C&T's fashion division in 2011. It is currently carried in department stores and select shops in major cities across 27 countries, including Paris, New York in the United States, London in the United Kingdom, and Milan in Italy.
With 83 stores at home and abroad, Songzio opened a global flagship store in the Marais district of Paris late last year. This year, it plans to open Songzio Woman, a womenswear line, right next door and a flagship store in New York in the United States. Last year's sales were about 80 billion won, and this year's target is 100 billion won.