According to Roman mythology, Bacchus, the god of wine, one day disguised himself as a human and went to Mount Massico near Rome. An old man named Falernus lived there. Unaware that the shabby-looking traveler was a god, he served the vegetables and milk he had carefully tended. He did not have much, but he treated his guest with utmost hospitality.

Moved by this, Bacchus touched the bowl of milk while Falernus briefly stepped away and turned it into a rich, red wine. Startled by the aroma and taste of the liquid he had never seen before, Falernus heard Bacchus reveal his identity and bless the entire mountain. Mount Massico was said to have transformed into a vineyard in an instant. The grapes born then are said to have become the origin of Falernian wine, which ancient Romans called a "gift from the gods."

According to Natural History by the Roman scholar Pliny, Falernian wine is among the finest wines in Italy. He said that well-aged Falernian was so dense that it would catch fire if an oil lamp's flame was held close. With that kind of aging potential, and considering it was opened only at special moments during ancient banquets, Falernian was not a mere beverage but closer to an aristocratic luxury.

Graphic=Son Min-gyun

Although the exact variety of Falernian has not been identified, many researchers believe its descendant is the native variety Aglianico, because its place of origin overlaps with today's Campania in southern Italy.

Aglianico's defining trait is its late ripening. While most European red varieties are harvested around September, Aglianico lingers on the vine and ripens slowly until late October to early November. Its thick skins and high acidity mean it takes a long time to fully mature.

As a result, the wine has both high acidity and firm tannins. In youth it is tight and rough, but with time it evolves to aromas of leather, tobacco, and dried flowers, gaining depth. Because of these traits, Aglianico is often compared with Barolo, a masterpiece of northern Italy, and called the "Barolo of the south." Though grown in the warm south, its structure and aging potential are closer to the long-lived wines of the north.

The place where this variety thrives most is Irpinia, in the inland of Avellino, Campania. Unlike the Naples coast, this is a highland on the inner slopes of the Apennines. In the rolling hills around 500 meters above sea level, strong sunlight by day and a sharp drop in temperature at night create a large diurnal shift.

The soils here mix influences from Vesuvius' volcanic activity with limestone and clay. This environment maintains acidity without pushing sugar levels excessively, creating tension and balance.

A family-run winery rooted here is Rocca del Principe. Although a relatively young producer that began full-scale bottling in the early 2000s, it has drawn attention for a style that faithfully expresses Irpinia's environment in the wine.

Rather than emphasizing concentration and power, Rocca del Principe prioritizes balance and acidity. Instead of overlaying excessive oak aromas, it uses post-fermentation oak aging to polish tannins and refine texture. The focus on the character of the single vineyard Campore follows the same logic—an approach that interprets wine through the vineyard's identity. The vineyard sits on a southeast-facing slope, and low yields are maintained to secure fruit concentration and structure.

Aglianico Irpinia is made from 100% Aglianico. After harvesting in late fall and fermenting the grapes, the wine undergoes about 12 months of oak aging and bottle aging. In the glass, it shows deep ruby, with black cherry and plum-like dark fruit aromas first, followed by notes of dried herbs and spices, and nuances of earth and leather. Thanks to its high acidity and tannins, it pairs well with meats such as lamb or steak. It won the grand prize in the Old World red wine category at the 2025 Korea Wine & Spirits Awards. The importer in Korea is One O One.

※ This article has been translated by AI. Share your feedback here.