The Alto Adige region at Italy's northernmost tip has always stood on a boundary. Ringed like a folding screen by the rugged Alps, this land is well known as the Dolomites tourist destination, but its historical layers are too deep to describe it as merely an Italian administrative district. For about 550 years it was territory of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and it was incorporated into Italy after World War I.
The border changed, but language, culture and ways of life did not change easily. Even more than 100 years after becoming Italian territory, residents' language, culture and lifestyle remain closer to Austria. Italian and German are still used together, and the regional name is written in both Italian "Alto Adige" and German "Südtirol." It is, in effect, a "land of the boundary" where the identities of two worlds are tightly interlocked.
This complex history carries over into the wines produced in Alto Adige. The wines of Alto Adige are regarded as "the least Italian in Italy." High-altitude vineyards on the southern slopes of the Alps, harsh diurnal shifts, and barren soils mixing limestone and gravel form a unique terroir found only here. Layered atop this are Central Europe's characteristically precise agricultural management and Italy's winemaking tradition, establishing the region as a sanctuary for white wines with pronounced acidity and structure.
The producer that most honestly embodies this region's balance is Cantina Tramin. It began in 1898 as a cooperative founded by Christian Schrott, a priest in the village of Tramin, and has grown into a large cooperative comprising more than 160 grower households today. Despite being a cooperative model, it is renowned for maintaining world-class quality. Vineyards are subdivided for management, harvest times are strictly separated by variety, and differences in raw material are handled delicately through individual fermentations and aging. It is an operating approach that chooses balance between collective and individual, efficiency and precision.
The wine that most symbolically shows this philosophy is "Stoan Bianco." "Stoan" is the local dialect form of the standard German "Stein," meaning "stone." The name itself points to the region's soils. Limestone, gravel and rocks left as glaciers carved down the Alps form the base of the vineyards. In these fast-draining soils, vines must drive roots deep between rocks, absorbing minerals in the process. As a result, the wine develops a saline minerality and firm framework. The regional view of a barren stony field as a blessing rather than a curse is fully captured in the name.
Another balance in Stoan Bianco appears in its varieties. It blends Chardonnay with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Gewürztraminer. Rather than any single grape taking the lead, each variety shares a role to complete the overall structure. Chardonnay sets an elegant backbone, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Bianco add freshness, and Gewürztraminer contributes a radiant aroma. This precise blend that does not tip to one side resembles the sense of balance in Alto Adige's history.
The grapes are grown at high altitudes ranging from 250 to 850 meters above sea level. Cold northerly winds flowing down from the Alps and the warm breeze from Lake Garda that rises in the afternoon create dramatic diurnal shifts, allowing the grapes to retain optimal acidity and aroma.
After harvest, the grapes are placed in small crates and pressed gently right away, then fermented slowly in large oak barrels with temperature controlled at 18–20°C. Partial malolactic fermentation occurs during this process. The wine is clarified through natural settling and aged by variety on the lees. After blending and bottling, it undergoes at least three months of bottle aging, with a total aging period of at least 14 months.
The color is pale golden. Layers of fruit aromas of peach, apricot and pear unfold with floral notes of elderflower, kumquat, jasmine and mimosa. On the palate, pineapple, banana, pear, tomato leaf, green bell pepper and citrus zest harmonize to show a balanced structure. Saline minerality holds the center, and the finish is long and creamy. It pairs well with a range of antipasti such as various pastas, fish dishes, and spicy pork served with white meat or mushrooms. It received 94 points from Robert Parker, 91 points from Wine Spectator and 93 points from James Suckling. It won the grand prize in the New World white wine category at the 2025 Korea Wine & Spirits Awards. The domestic importer is NARA CELLAR.