The beauty industry is putting effort into developing cosmetics that use the ingredient PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide). In the past, it was mainly used in dermatology procedures or in the field of specialized pharmaceuticals for skin regeneration and recovery, but recently its application has expanded across skincare products overall.
On the 27th, display shelves at the Olive Young Gangnam Town branch in Gangnam District, Seoul, were lined with products featuring "PDRN" front and center. There were dozens of brands and product types. Ampoules and serums were the most common, but lotions, creams, mists, and sheet masks also stood out. PDRN repeatedly appeared in key promotional materials, such as standees throughout the store and posters on the walls.
PDRN is the key ingredient in the medication commonly referred to in dermatology as the "salmon injection." It consists of DNA fragments extracted from salmon that regenerate cells and help skin recovery. It is often mentioned alongside Rejuran Healer, a representative skin booster procedure that strengthens the skin and improves elasticity.
Recently, amid rising demand for home care and a preference for functional cosmetics, the beauty industry has been focusing on developing products that use PDRN. Interest is growing in skin longevity and slow-aging, which go beyond simple moisturizing or brightening to improve overall skin condition.
Growth in the dermacosmetics market is also supporting the spread of PDRN. The concept combines dermatology and cosmetics, referring to products that emphasize safety and efficacy based on pharmaceutical and biotech technology and clinical data. A distinguishing feature is that they have secured greater medical credibility than general cosmetics.
Major brands are pursuing ingredient differentiation from the initial product planning stage. Moving away from the conventional reliance on animal-derived ingredients such as salmon and trout, there is a growing trend of applying PDRN extracted from plant-based sources such as green tea, roses, and seaweed. Product development that varies concentration, formulation, and combinations with concurrent ingredients is also continuing.
Amorepacific has developed PDRN extracted from the microalga chlorella and named it "Blue PDRN." Plant-based PDRN is known to be more environmentally friendly and suitable for mass production compared with animal-based PDRN. Innisfree and IOPE have also developed products containing plant-based PDRN, and some are manufacturing it directly.
For now, most brands produce through original equipment manufacturers (OEM) or original design manufacturers (ODM), but there are also moves to build in-house production systems. The main manufacturers currently include COSMAX, Cosmecca Korea, Cosvision, and Kolmar Korea.
APR has established a factory in Pyeongtaek, Gyeonggi Province, specializing in the production of PDRN and PN (polynucleotide) (APR Factory Third Campus). The plan is to secure quality and price competitiveness through internalizing technology and in-house production. In addition to supplying materials to manufacturers, the company will use them in its existing cosmetics and is preparing new product development.
According to an announcement by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, as of 2024 the global market for PDRN-related products is estimated at $7.68 billion (about 11 trillion won). That is nearly double the $4.47 billion (about 6 trillion won) as of 2022. The market is expected to be larger when including PN and other related products.