Chilean wine has long been synonymous with value in the global wine market. However, in recent years, international critics' evaluations show that it has reached a position that cannot be explained by price-to-quality alone. Renowned wine critic James Suckling said in 2019, "Chilean bold grape growers are pushing innovation to the limits. The highest-rated Chilean wines in history are being released on the market and have joined the ranks of the world's best wines." Against this backdrop, the Chilean winery Montes holds a symbolic position.
ChosunBiz met with Gabriela Negrete, the chief winemaker of Montes, who visited from Chile, at NARA CELLAR in Gangnam, Seoul, on the 17th of last month, to ask about the secret behind the recent series of good evaluations received by Chilean wines, including Montes wine.
Chief winemaker Negrete noted, "In the 1980s, a 'quality revolution' was underway in France, Italy, and other countries with the introduction of modern winemaking technology. Chilean wineries also quickly grew during this period by benchmarking overseas wineries. Chile was able to apply the know-how they had accumulated over hundreds of years in a short time."
Negrete is a person who came to Chile after accumulating a long career in overseas wineries. He entered the Catholic University of Chile in 1991, majoring in winemaking. Afterward, he gained experience in wineries in major wine regions such as Napa Valley in the United States, Ribera del Duero in Spain, and Bordeaux in France before joining Montes in 2004. Since 2018, he has been overseeing the entire production process as chief winemaker at Montes' base in Apalta.
He said, "Montes has never skimped on investment to create good wine since its establishment in 1987, and those efforts are paying off." The following is a Q&A.
What significance does Montes have in the history of Chilean wine?
"Montes is the place that brought Chilean wine to the global wine history. The founder, Aurelio Montes, was a visionary innovator. He established the winery to create high-quality wines that could compete with the best wines in the world. Even after 35 years, we are still dedicated to this passion. The reason we were able to create excellent wines is that we paid great attention to even the smallest details."
What is the most important element in making an iKON wine?
"iKON wine is the winery's most carefully crafted iconic top-grade wine. The most important element is, first and foremost, the vineyard. Only by obtaining the best vineyards and the best grapes can we make remarkable wine. There are no magical seasonings aside from that. The founder chose a special place called Apalta, where the soil diversity and conditions from flat land to hills allow for various expressions."
Next, an important factor is the timing of the harvest. Harvesting at the right time is key, and during the winemaking process, we approach gently and meticulously to maintain the advantages gained from the vineyards. I often tell our staff, 'Be careful and don't lose focus.' The grape harvesting period is physically demanding. We have as many as 153 tanks in the winery. We need to pay close attention at each stage, so I always say, 'Consider the grapes as your children.'"
What significance does Alpha M hold among Montes' iKON wines?
"The founder wanted to create a wine that would represent Chile in the so-called 'Champions League,' competing alongside French and Italian wines on the world stage even before establishing the winery. The first wine released by Montes was 'Montes Alpha.' This remained true even after the product launch. After more than a decade of research under the name 'Project X', he introduced 'Montes Alpha M' in 1996. It was the first wine from Chile to stand shoulder to shoulder with traditionally renowned wines from regions like Bordeaux in France."
What is the difference between an iKON wine and the more popular 'Montes Alpha' series?
"The Alpha series focuses on consistency and steadiness. It represents the typical style of Montes. In contrast, iKON wines maximize the individuality of each vintage. Because the plots where the grapes are produced are fixed, the climate of that year and the characteristics of the vineyards are more pronounced. The Alpha wines use grapes harvested from 60 to 80 plots, while iKON wines go through a much more precise selection process. For example, Alpha M incorporates Cabernet Sauvignon harvested from 10 plots, Merlot from 7 plots, Cabernet Franc from 5 plots, and Petit Verdot from 3 plots. The reason I know exactly how many plots is that I walk through the vineyards myself to check. Precision in plot management is crucial for enhancing quality."
How do you determine if it is the right time to harvest grapes?
"First, I bite into the grapes. I see if there is an ideal balance by tasting the sweetness, acidity, and polyphenols. I also measure the Brix (a unit that indicates the sugar content in fruits) but only use it as a hint to decide which plot's grapes to pick first; I do not absolutely trust it."
What differences have there been between vintages?
"For example, 2010 saw a lot of rain in winter and a cool spring. The summer was warm but not excessively hot, making it a good year. In contrast, 2015 had a lot of rain in winter, but the spring had unusually low temperatures, slowing growth, and the summer was extremely hot. On the other hand, 2020 had half the usual winter precipitation, making vineyard management difficult, and a heatwave struck during the summer. These conditions create differences between vintages."
What efforts are being made in anticipation of quality changes due to global warming?
"Starting around 2009, we began full-scale research to prepare for climate change. In the vineyards, we plant cover crops to maintain soil moisture, and we reduce water loss and sun damage through leaf count and canopy management. When the weather is dry, grape berries tend to shrink, so we adjust the extraction methods in the winery accordingly and vary the proportion of oak barrel usage. In the last five years, we have also put effort into 'regenerative agriculture.' This keeps the soil healthy and makes the vines themselves stronger and more resilient. This way, we can ensure grapes grow well even amidst climate change."
Over 17 million bottles of Montes wine have been sold in Korea so far. What drinking methods do you recommend?
"Montes wine can be enjoyed right away with a new vintage. However, if you have space to store it and can wait, it can be excellent even after 10 or 15 years. Over time, it becomes more complex and smoother, providing a magical experience."