When watching a movie, it seems that in aircraft first class or private jets owned by the rich, passengers are offered a glass of champagne as a welcome drink as soon as they board. At first glance, this one glass of wine appears trivial, but it has become a fierce competitive tool among airlines.
Korean Air has recently fallen behind Australian Qantas and Qatar Airways in the first-class wine service, regarded as the pride of airlines and the highlight of in-flight service.
On the 24th, ChosunBiz analyzed the results of the past five years of the 'Cellars in the Sky Awards,' which is considered the most prestigious airline wine competition in the world. Once highly regarded globally, Korean Air had no awards in the major categories of first class last year, marking a clear decline in its status.
◇ Korean Air missing from the first-class wine ‘hall of fame’
This ceremony, which began in 1985 and celebrated its 39th event last year, is a historic competition. Evaluations are conducted entirely through blind tasting, eliminating the possibility of bias.
Korean Air substantially revamped its wine list in October 2022. Afterward, it won two awards in the first-class sparkling wine and dessert wine sectors. It also placed third in the overall category, showcasing its performance. However, last year it only managed to win a silver medal in the first-class dessert wine category.
Korean Air's position has been taken by Australian Qantas Airways and Qatar Airways. Qantas secured a gold medal in first-class red wine, while Qatar Airways achieved a gold medal in the white wine category, surpassing Korean Air.
Currently, on the Seoul to Los Angeles route, Korean Air offers three red wines, including the Australian Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz. For white wines, it serves two types, including the French Gustav Lorentz Riesling Altenberg.
All these wines were selected when the new in-flight wine list was adopted in 2022. Even during a major service overhaul ahead of the upcoming merger with Asiana Airlines, the wine lineup remained largely unchanged.
◇ Despite service overhaul ahead of Asiana merger, wine remains ‘as it was 3 years ago’
Recently, Korean Air announced a new corporate identity symbol and livery ahead of its merger with Asiana Airlines. At the same time, the airline overhauled its in-flight menu and convenience services to enhance service quality.
Starting from the 12th, new first-class in-flight meals have been introduced on major long-haul routes such as New York, Paris, and London. Traditional royal cuisine was replaced by octopus rice and other dishes instead of existing options like golden-brown grilled items and bibimbap. The first-class tableware has also been upgraded to French Bernard China, Christofle cutlery, and German Riedel wine glasses. Sleepwear and bedding are also sourced from the Italian luxury brand Pret-a.
Despite these efforts to enhance service quality, the wine lineup has remained unchanged from three years ago. A representative from the Korean Sommelier Association noted, “Korean Air's wines were highly rated at the time of selection, but as competing airlines have continuously updated their wine selections, its relative competitiveness has weakened.”
A representative from Korean Air addressed the wine revamp, stating, “We have enhanced service quality through a pre-purchase method that allows us to secure the best wine quantities in advance” and added, “We will aim to increase passenger satisfaction by expanding the origins and varieties of wines offered on board.”
◇ Competing airlines make aggressive wine investments to attract VIPs
However, competing airlines are not just content with securing quantities and diversity of wines. Emirates has invested $1 billion (approximately 1.43 trillion won) over the past 16 years since 2006 to purchase high-quality wines to serve in first and business class. To store the 6.5 million bottles of wine acquired, a separate large warehouse was built in France.
Some of these wines will be stored and will only be moved to the United Arab Emirates in 2035. This is a measure to provide these wines to first-class passengers at their most flavorful state after being aged for over 13 years.
Etihad Airways began offering the 2000 vintage Château Lafite Rothschild in its ultra-luxurious first-class product known as The Residence earlier this year. This wine is priced at about $1,000 to $1,500 (approximately 1.4 million to 2.1 million won) per bottle. To prevent deterioration in wine quality, Etihad has introduced a dedicated helicopter that meticulously manages temperature and humidity from the airport to the aircraft. A sommelier also accompanies the wine to provide real-time advice on board.
◇ Competitors conduct persistent research to perfect wine taste at altitude
According to statistics from the International Air Transport Association (IATA), business and first class comprise about one-third of all seats among airlines, yet these seats generate up to 70% of total revenue.
Beyond mere image management, how many first-class passengers an airline secures is a matter of grave concern for its future.
Globally recognized airlines make a tremendous effort to cater to first-class passengers, who are sensitive to subtle tastes and aromas, to the extent that one may wonder, 'Is it necessary to go this far?'
Large passenger aircraft equipped with first class typically maintain an altitude of over 30,000 feet (approximately 9,100 meters). At this height, the pressure decreases, and humidity drops compared to the ground. This diminishes the function of the nose and tongue, dulling the senses of smell and taste.
Qatar Airways sent its head wine steward to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa, to test the taste of wine. This was a measure to accurately capture how wine flavors change at pressures similar to those at cruising altitudes.
Qatar Airways subsequently installed a special wine cabinet on board, which adjusts oxygen levels and humidity to correct the wine taste changes at altitude.
Qantas Airlines provides a specially designed wine glass to maximize the wine experience during flights. This glass features a unique curved design that concentrates the wine aroma, allowing passengers to experience scents akin to those on the ground, even in the low-pressure environment of the aircraft.
European airlines, which have been relatively indifferent to the high-end wine competition, are now seeking creative ways to improve first-class wine offerings.
German Lufthansa recently launched the 'Taste at Altitude' project. In collaboration with the German Wine Institute, it scientifically tests how wine flavors change at 35,000 feet and, based on the results, introduces special pressure vessels for serving wine, which is served using individual decanting equipment.
◇ “First-class wine is a challenge tied to the pride of global top airlines”
Aviation experts note that “in the competition for premium seats, wine service is an essential competitive element,” and advised that “to regain its former glory, Korean Air must further strengthen its wine investment and service differentiation.”
Overall, to capture the hearts of first-class passengers who possess extensive experience and knowledge of wine, it is necessary to secure high-quality premium wines and implement service strategies tailored to in-flight altitudes.
Korean Air stated, “World Best Sommelier competition champion Marc Almert has carefully selected high-quality wines through blind tasting,” adding, “organic, biodynamic, and vegan options are included in the wines offered in first and prestige (business) class.” It further noted, “Wines have been arranged considering the in-flight environment and compatibility with in-flight meals, and we circulate the wine list quarterly to allow passengers to taste a variety of wines.”
However, it is reported that during the merger process with Asiana Airlines, the revamp of the additional wine lineup has become a relatively lower priority. Significant improvements to first-class wines are expected to take place after the merger is completed.
Jonathan Berry, a consultant at the U.S. large wine company Benchmark Group, told ChosunBiz, “Flattering phrases like ‘delicious wine selected through blind tasting’ or ‘eco-friendly’ and ‘diversity’ do not resonate with first-class passengers.” He emphasized that they want the highest quality wines to be provided in a manner fitting for first-class seats that cost over $10,000.
He added, “In-flight seats have already been standardized to a high level, and since catering costs are similar for all airlines, wine becomes a crucial selection factor for first-class passengers,” noting that “the selection of first-class wines by top global airlines is a significant task pertaining to their pride, rather than just an efficiency issue.”