The Japanese kaiseki restaurant "Gagen," listed in the Michelin Guide Seoul 2025, recently changed its name. Gagen opened in July 2023 and has received positive reviews from food enthusiasts. Shortly after the restaurant was introduced, it garnered attention for being included in the Michelin Guide. The Michelin Guide noted that Gagen is "a place where you can distinctly feel the seasonal aspects of Japanese cuisine" and that "uncommon dishes delight the five senses."
According to the retail industry on the 20th, Gagen's newly changed name is "Gagen by Choi Jun-ho." Within the culinary community, there has been curiosity over who Choi Jun-ho is, given that restaurant names typically include the chef's name, yet the chef has not changed. The chefs of restaurant Gagen are the couple Choi Hyun-ah and Won Jin-hee. Chef Choi Hyun-ah has gained experience at "Kanda," while Chef Won Jin-hee has honed skills at "KurogI."
So who is the name newly engraved on the sign? It is none other than Gagen's investor, Choi Jun-ho, the vice chairman of the fashion company Hyungji Group. Choi Jun-ho, the eldest son of Choi Byung-o, chairman of Hyungji Group, identified the restaurant business as a new growth driver for the group in 2022 and was instrumental in the creation of Gagen.
The culinary community views this change as unusual. It is almost unheard of to attach an investor's name to a Michelin restaurant, which is typically considered fine dining. It is said to be rare globally as well.
The reason investors' names are not typically attached is that fine dining is often viewed as a form of art. However, providing good ingredients to a limited number of customers makes it difficult to generate revenue. In fact, the structure involves investors bearing losses to maintain the establishment. Examples include Gaon, operated by Gwangjuyo, and Mosu Seoul, managed by CJ CheilJedang.
Investors have not been involved in the operation of restaurants until now. This implies a complete respect for the chefs' opinions, akin to sponsoring art. A culinary industry insider stated, "For an artist to establish themselves and gain recognition, the role of a sponsor is significant, yet it is customary not to attach the sponsor's name to their artwork. The same applies to the fine dining realm." They added, "In this atmosphere, it is quite surprising that the investor's name is on the sign."
There are analyses in the culinary community suggesting that Hyungji Group seems to be utilizing Gagen to enhance its upscale brand image. The fashion company Hyungji has become a popular comprehensive fashion company in the domestic women's casual market for ages 30 to 50, following the success of "Crocodile Lady," launched in 1996. It holds brands such as Castelbajac and Chartres, as well as Olivian Hustler.
As these brands are widely loved, there is a lack of an upscale image. Building a high-end image during a time of consumer polarization is a significant challenge for fashion companies. This context suggests that fine dining could be one of the most effective means to achieve this. A retail industry insider with experience in fine dining investment noted, "It seems the company is utilizing fine dining as part of its marketing strategy, similar to how they operate a sports team."
Furthermore, the retail industry is keenly observing whether such examples will increase. Thus far, it has been said that chefs have not agreed, preventing such attempts. A retail industry insider remarked, "It cannot be denied that fine dining is one of the good means for image renewal or upscale branding."
Could the unusual actions of Gagen and Hyungji Group lead to changes in the fine dining market? However, Hyungji Group stated regarding this matter, "There are preparations underway, so it is difficult to make a public stance yet." The Michelin Guide Seoul 2025 star ratings are expected to be announced at the end of this month.