In the United States, the status of chicken dark meat, once shunned, is rising fast. With more immigrants, shifting food culture, and the recent high inflation, analysts say the once "nonmainstream" dark meat has become a key ingredient.
The Wall Street Journal (WSJ) highlighted the shift with the example of New York's popular restaurant Pecking House. Its signature item is a chicken sandwich made by marinating dark meat in buttermilk and spices, frying it twice, then soaking it in chili oil blended with duck fat. The key to this dish, lauded by local food outlets as "the best taste in New York," is dark meat.
In fact, white meat reigned as the star of chicken in the United States for a long time. Low in fat and high in protein, it was seen as the symbol of healthy eating. There was also a cultural bias that white, clean-looking breast meat was more premium and sanitary. By contrast, dark meat was pushed aside by perceptions that it was greasy and less hygienic. According to a 2007 National Chicken Council survey, when Americans ate chicken an average of nine times a month, they chose dark meat only twice. As a result, U.S. poultry companies exported surplus dark meat at bargain prices to Russia, Mexico, and parts of Asia.
But U.S. consumers have recently rediscovered the value of dark meat. Eric Huang, founder of Pecking House, said, "Dark meat is not only juicy and texturally superior, it's a practical cut that holds up in flavor even if there are mistakes in the cooking process."
Demographic shifts are behind the rising demand for dark meat. As immigration grows from regions such as Asia, the Middle East, and Latin America, where dark meat is traditionally favored, their food cultures have spread across the U.S. dining market.
Economic factors also played a big role. As beef prices have surged recently in the United States, demand has shifted to chicken as a cost-effective protein source. Among chicken cuts, dark meat, with its price competitiveness, has drawn attention. The growth of the "fast-casual" market, which sells salads and grain bowls, has also boosted the versatility of dark meat, which pairs well with diverse seasonings and cooking methods. That is why well-known chains such as Sweetgreen, Cava, and Chipotle are racing to strengthen their dark meat offerings.
The trend shows up in the numbers. According to market research firm Circana, as of Nov. last year, sales of ground chicken made from dark meat jumped 23.1% from a year earlier. Pilgrim's Pride, the No. 2 U.S. poultry company, also said in a recent earnings release that "demand for boneless dark meat across the foodservice industry is growing at a double-digit rate."