Korea's soju exports topped $200 million last year, hitting an all-time high. The Korean Wave driven by K-pop and Korean drama helped, but the hidden efforts of those who actively promoted the unique appeal of Korean alcohol on the global stage early on also played a big role. ChosunBiz captured the voices of those leading the globalization of Korean alcohol as "K-liquor evangelists." [Editor's note]
For foreigners, soju is no longer an unfamiliar drink. Online, it is easy to find videos of foreigners enjoying drinking games while having somaek (a mix of soju and beer). Through K-content such as Netflix's "Squid Game," foreigners not only became familiar with soju, but have now reached a level where they enjoy Korea's drinking culture itself. However, even before K-content gained global popularity, Korean-style bars had already been quietly laying the groundwork overseas.
Soju Haus, which has held its ground in the heart of Manhattan, New York, for more than 10 years, is a prime example. Soju Haus is an indoor pojangmacha-style bar popular even among young Koreans, transplanting the feel of a street tent bar to New York with stainless steel round tables and simple stools. True to its name, it offers all the major Korean soju brands, including Jinro, Chamisul, and Cheoeum Cheoreom. How did a K-pocha come to take root in the middle of Manhattan, where upscale bars abound? At the end of September, ChosunBiz spoke via video call with CEO Moon Jun-ho (54) of Soju Haus to hear the story.
◇An indoor pocha evolved for New York
Moon said, "In New York, where bar culture is deeply rooted, I wanted to promote soju as a drink with outstanding value for money." After immigrating to the United States in the mid-1990s, he took his first step into the restaurant industry working at "3rd Floor Cafe," which dominated Manhattan's Koreatown at the time. In 2003, Moon acquired the 3rd Floor Cafe where he worked, then expanded his business around Manhattan's Koreatown with the Korean barbecue restaurant Neobiani, the tofu specialty restaurant Tofu Haus, and the cocktail bar Musek.
Operating several venues, he judged that lounge bars had strong growth potential in the New York market, where young people from around the world gather, and conceived Soju Haus by combining a Korean-style pocha concept. But Soju Haus did more than simply transplant Korea's drinking culture to New York; it blended local and Korean cultures harmoniously. While placing furniture symbolic of pocha, the overall interior was designed as sleek as any typical New York bar to appeal to New Yorkers' preference for a modern sensibility.
Moon said, "I focused on stripping away unnecessary elements and expressing simplicity in the interior." Not even the lighting was chosen carelessly. He said, "We carefully considered every element, from the lighting's shape and brightness to its placement." Cone-shaped, daylight-colored bulbs are installed above the stainless steel round tables to make the food look more appetizing and to create an atmosphere where customers can focus on the person sitting across from them.
His effort to naturally infuse New York with Korean roots is evident in the menu as well. In addition to stocking a variety of Korean diluted soju, Soju Haus also sells "soju cocktails" that mix soju with ingredients popular among locals, such as black tea, grapefruit, yuzu, and coconut. Recently, it introduced a new "matcha highball" using matcha, which U.S. Gen Zs are crazy about. Moon said, "Rather than pushing ahead simply as a Korean-style bar, we sought to deeply understand locals' needs, preferences, and drinking culture—their lifestyle—and to naturally infuse Korea's drinking culture into it."
Because soju and tasty anju are an inseparable set in Korea, Soju Haus serves a variety of Korean dishes that pair well with soju. Moon explained, "We define Soju Haus as a place that sells Korean food that goes well with soju." Soju Haus brings together quintessential Korean anju menus for soju, including spicy whelk salad, stir-fried beef intestines, dried radish greens potato pork bone stew, and spicy chicken feet soup. Fusion dishes that combine local food culture with Korean ingredients, such as perilla oil pasta, are also easy to find.
◇"May it become a place where people from around the world gather"
Because it entered New York before the Korean Wave spread, Soju Haus was a very unfamiliar space for most locals at the time. In New York, a "bar" usually means a place focused on drinks, so Soju Haus' approach of centering on alcohol while also serving a plate of food was unfamiliar to locals. To make it easier for foreigners to understand, Moon introduced Soju Haus as a "Korean tapas bar," referencing Spain's tapas (small appetizer dishes) concept. He also continued to develop menus tailored to local trends.
Thanks to these efforts, Soju Haus—which initially had Korean international students as its main customer base—has now become a local hot spot. Today, foreigners account for half of all customers, with Korean Americans and students making up the other half. "Foreigners come to the store to make and drink somaek they have seen in Korean drama, or they bend the soju glass to drink," Moon said, adding, "It's not uncommon to see them enjoying Korean-style drinking games."
Moon said, "I want to develop Soju Haus beyond a space that simply promotes Korean alcohol and food into a place where customers come to find enjoyment." To that end, the venue stages customized music and lighting and a candle-blowing moment for birthday guests, and holds a countdown event with customers every Dec. 31, among other events. To ensure that customers leave with a fun experience, a positive attitude is one of the most important criteria in hiring.
The ultimate goal of Soju Haus is to become a place that people around the world can visit without hesitation. Focusing on cities with good accessibility, Moon plans to expand locations and is strongly considering opening "Soju Haus 2" in nearby Boston first. "I have worked in the restaurant industry for more than 27 years based in New York," he said. "Not only Soju Haus but our other brands are preparing to expand in the market. I hope Korea's unique culture of sharing joys and sorrows over drinks is conveyed to foreigners as well."