The Italian luxury brand "Stone Island" has recently been consumed like a uniform by British far-right figures, stirring controversy over the brand's image. In a Sept. protest in London against immigration, tens of thousands of demonstrators took to the streets, and many of them were spotted wearing clothing bearing the Stone Island logo. British far-right activist Tommy Robinson also appeared in the brand at the protest site and when appearing in court, intensifying the controversy.
According to CNN on the 15th (local time), Stone Island's signature compass logo originally symbolized the spirit of navigation and exploration, but now it has been distorted into a symbol of belonging for some extremists. Robinson and his supporters denied claims that they use the brand as a symbol of the far right, but his repeated exposure drew criticism that it politically tainted the brand's image. Joe Mulhall, research director at the British civic group "Hope not Hate," said, "Robinson grew up alongside hooligan culture, and Stone Island was part of that world."
From the brand's perspective, it is an embarrassing situation. Fashion brands have the limitation that they cannot control who buys their clothes. Cynthia Miller-Idriss, a professor at American University in Washington, D.C., said, "Brands should be wary of being linked to groups that incite or engage in violence," adding, "Regardless of ideology, ties to violent groups undermine brand trust." Stone Island and its parent company Moncler did not respond to CNN's request for comment.
There have been similar cases in the past. The British brand "Fred Perry" halted sales after the far-right group Proud Boys used its signature polo shirts as a kind of uniform. In the United States, New Balance issued an official position saying, "We do not tolerate any form of bias or hate," after a neo-Nazi website promoted its sneakers as "the official shoes of white people." Another British brand, "Lonsdale," strengthened its anti-racism message by launching the "Lonsdale Loves All Colours" campaign after far-right groups exploited the brand because its logo resembled the initials of the Nazi Party.
There is a history of fashion becoming a symbol of extremism. In the 1990s in Germany, neo-Nazis used brand logos or letters instead of banned symbols to signal their identity, and later far-right groups around the world adopted such "coded clothing." Professor Miller-Idriss analyzed, "Fashion has become a new camouflage capable of hiding political messages."
Stone Island was originally a brand noted for functionality and design innovation. It was founded in 1982 in Italy by designer Massimo Osti and is now under the Moncler Group. Known for experimental products such as thermosensitive jackets that change color with temperature, it has established itself as a brand favored by global celebrities including Liam Gallagher, Drake, and Dua Lipa. However, some analysis suggests that the brand's roots touching soccer fan culture have made it attractive to extremists.
Professor Miller-Idriss said, "The exclusivity and sense of belonging that originated in past hooligan culture is similar to some far-right movements," adding, "Stone Island's symbolic imagery has been repurposed by them as a 'code of pride.'" British fashion expert Director Olly Evans said, "Stone Island was a symbol of displaying social status and masculinity in terrace (soccer stands) culture," explaining, "Robinson wearing these clothes can be an act of showing that he is at 'the very top.'"
Experts advised that Stone Island needs efforts to "reclaim the narrative" to restore the brand's value and identity. Tim Ellis-Dale, a professor at Teesside University, pointed out, "Since the commercialization of the Premier League, hooligan culture has disappeared, but remnants of the past still linger in the brand image." He added, "If the brand does not reinterpret its past symbols, it can be reoccupied by specific groups."
The phenomenon of fashion being used as a political symbol is likely to continue. Osti, the founder of Stone Island, was a leftist figure in his lifetime and a member of the Italian Communist Party. Director Evans said, "If his philosophy is still respected today, extremists wearing those clothes do not tarnish his achievements." He emphasized, "Ultimately, the question for a brand depends less on who wears it than on what values it upholds."