K-pop and other aspects of Korean pop culture are gaining popularity overseas. Korean dramas, such as 'Crash Landing on You,' received enthusiastic support in Asia, including Japan, while 'Squid Game' created a global fan base for the Korean Wave. The popularity of Korean pop culture has also led to the widespread dissemination of unique industries and lifestyles born in South Korea. ChosunBiz focuses on highlighting this global K-culture.
In France, known as the 'country of gastronomy,' wine pairing is one of the common dining cultures. Thanks to favorable climates for grape cultivation and an early development of agricultural techniques, France boasts many world-renowned wine regions. Accordingly, the French place great value on the process of selecting the right wine that enhances the flavors of food. Reflecting this characteristic of French culinary culture, there is a Korean restaurant that offers Korean cuisine and wine pairing. That restaurant is 'Ma-shi-ta.'
'Ma-shi-ta' is a Korean restaurant opened in 2021 in the 14th arrondissement of Paris by CEO Jeong Gi-beom, a travel writer, and his wife, Chef Kim Suk-hyun, who previously worked as an interpreter for Air France. Known for its menu featuring dishes like stir-fried pork, bulgogi, and japchae, 'Ma-shi-ta' is famous for providing wine pairings that complement each Korean dish. In 2023, this restaurant was also selected by the Korean government as one of five outstanding Korean restaurants abroad. ChosunBiz conducted an email interview with CEO Jeong.
◇The harmony of premium Korean ingredients and wine
'Ma-shi-ta' was born out of CEO Jeong's desire to have a proper Korean restaurant in Paris. He said, "Having a profession that revolves around travel and food, I have experienced a variety of cuisines around the world," and "In that process, I realized that people worldwide could be thrilled by a single dish, and I began to dream of creating an authentic Korean restaurant in Paris." He noted that while the popularity of K-pop and K-drama has naturally led to an increase in Korean restaurants, places operated by Koreans and featuring Korean chefs are still quite rare in Paris.
CEO Jeong and his wife named their restaurant 'Ma-shi-ta' with the promise to make it a place where one can enjoy truly delicious Korean food. They adhere to the principle of preparing all dishes only after they are ordered and personally source various high-quality ingredients from Korea. They use unique black soybean paste, formerly utilized by Michelin 3-star restaurant 'Mosu,' for making grilled pork neck (a traditional dish marinated in seasoning), alongside using seaweed and kimchi from esteemed kimchi master Park Gwang-hui.
One noteworthy aspect is the presence of Korean details throughout the restaurant. 'Ma-shi-ta' serves japchae wrapped in paper, tied with string, symbolizing the intention of presenting the food as a gift. Additionally, traditional desserts from the Normandy region, such as 'Tru Normand,' are creatively adapted using the Korean traditional liquor Damsol and yuzu ice cream. Customers can also enjoy desserts like Yulran (a traditional dessert utilizing chestnuts) and Gaeseongyakgwa at 'Ma-shi-ta.'
Another bragging point of 'Ma-shi-ta' is its extensive wine list. CEO Jeong said, "From the early days of opening, I made efforts to find French wines that pair well with Korean food," explaining that he invites wine producers he meets at wine fairs to the restaurant to update the list while enjoying wine with Korean dishes. He recommends Alsace Riesling or Loire wines with strong acidity for greasy dishes like fried chicken or japchae, while deep-bodied red wines from the Rhône region work well with savory dishes like stir-fried pork.
◇Expanding the pairing list with traditional liquor
'Ma-shi-ta' was not a successful restaurant from the beginning. CEO Jeong stated, "Opening a restaurant in a residential neighborhood in the 14th arrondissement of Paris presented many challenges," adding, "However, once customers tasted 'Ma-shi-ta's' food, they spread the word, leading to its current achievement of a 4.9 rating on Google in the less touristy area of the 14th arrondissement solely for its taste." He mentioned that currently, over 70% of the customers are locals from France, and some regulars have even traveled to Korea due to their interest in Korean food.
CEO Jeong expresses a desire to promote not only Korean cuisine but also Korean culture through 'Ma-shi-ta.' To achieve this, he has displayed works by Korean artists, such as Lee Bae and Nam Chun-mo, in spaces finished in black and white on the restaurant's walls. At the end of last year, he also utilized the restaurant space to host an exhibition of infographics related to Korean cuisine by 203 Infographic, a leading infographic firm in Korea. He said, "There will be continuous small exhibitions showcasing Korean food, Korean artists, and the landscapes of Korea."
Recently, 'Ma-shi-ta' has been working on adding traditional Korean liquor to its pairing list. Although smaller in scale compared to wines, they have already provided traditional liquor pairings such as Elgyeongju with galbi-jjim (braised short ribs) and Igangju with tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties). CEO Jeong noted, "Due to issues such as taxes, expenses, and efficiency, the sales of traditional liquor in France have not been smooth," but he also mentioned, "I recently had the opportunity to meet with producers of Il-yeop-pyeonju, Jinmak soju, and Andong soju, and I plan to import various traditional Korean liquors starting next month to further update the pairing line."
CEO Jeong plans to open a second location soon to expand 'Ma-shi-ta's' stage of activities. While it will still be a Korean restaurant, the second location will focus more on promoting Korean culture. He stated, "The second location will present a completely different concept and menu from the first," adding, "In the short term, I aim to deliver a variety of Korean food to the French by collaborating with chefs from Tongyeong for popup events and other exchanges with Korean chefs."