In Seoul in March, when the signs of spring were unmistakable, a special gourmet gala dinner took place at the Fairmont Ambassador Seoul. This event, featuring chefs representing Singapore and Korea, captivated attention with a feast that captured the essence of the season in its dishes.
On the 23rd, at the Fairmont's 'Mariposa' restaurant, a gala dinner unfolded under the name 'A Jazz-Fueled Evening: Five Chefs Under the Open Sky.' Led by Chef Lee Dae-geon, the executive chef of Fairmont Seoul, world-renowned chefs holding Michelin stars from 1 to 3 gathered to present dishes filled with their unique personalities and philosophies.
Before the main courses began, the outdoor terrace of Mariposa presented opening 'bite-sized dishes' prepared by each chef. Mariposa served an amuse-bouche shaped like a butterfly, the symbol of the restaurant, along with crispy fried baby octopus, while JL Studio presented exotic flavors through dishes featuring vanilla curry and shrimp. Swaniye offered an appetizer inspired by nurungji, and Soul showcased a sensory dish utilizing mascarpone and abalone, revealing each chef's unique color.
In particular, the owner chef of JL Studio, Jimmy Lim, demonstrated the skills of a three-star Michelin chef without reservation. He blended exotic flavors from Taiwan and Singapore with Korean elements to complete a distinctive gourmet experience. Korean chefs also contributed diverse dishes. Owner chefs Lee Joon of the Michelin 2-star restaurant Swaniye, Kim Hee-eun of the 1-star restaurant Soul, and Chef Yoon Dae-hyun each incorporated seasonal ingredients into their signature menus, encapsulating spring on a plate.
The gala course, consisting of eight dishes, fully expressed the individuality and aesthetics of collaboration among chefs. Notably, a single dish featured multiple chefs rather than just one. For instance, in the first course, a dish using cuttlefish, green pepper tomato water, and white asparagus showcased traces of collaboration between the chefs of Mariposa and Soul.
This dish, which involved cutting cuttlefish into thin strands and mixing it with broth infused with the aromatic green pepper and the umami of tomatoes, resembled the vibrant spring. The refreshing citrus aroma evoked the sunshine that awakens in spring, while the subtle flavor of the cuttlefish spread like an earthy scent.
Next, a dish featuring yellowtail with starfruit sauce and perilla oil noodles was served. This dish, a collaboration between JL Studio and Swaniye, allowed for the discovery of Korean flavors within Southeast Asian charm. The starfruit sauce was particularly unique. The subtly spicy asam oil combined with the sweet starfruit delivered a distinctive Southeast Asian sensation. It was somewhat reminiscent of Chinese flavors, akin to the familiar kanpunggi sauce. The sweet-spicy balance provided a delightful finish.
Chef Lim of JL Studio seemed to have designed the meal to subtly evoke the atmosphere of Southeast Asia throughout the course. A dish steamed with lobster surrounded by kelp and kaffir lime spices served as an example. As one savored the tender lobster meat, the floral spice aroma harmoniously blended. In a collaboration with Soul, grilled tilefish utilized doenjang and laksa to create flavors that were both familiar and exotic. The dense doenjang sauce and the tangy laksa subtly complemented each other, creating a feeling of mystery. The live jazz performance accompanying the meal intensified the experience.
The highlight of the day was the main course of hanwoo beef prepared by all the chefs involved. A perfectly grilled steak was topped with deodeok sauce, accompanied by oxtail ssamjang, octopus with spring greens, and saffron arancini. Soul's octopus and spring greens dish carried a smoky flavor reminiscent of the grilled delicacies of South Jeolla Province from the first bite. The spring greens also provided a fresh taste, distinctly capturing the essence of spring.
After the meal, the participating chefs reflected on the experience as 'a special time of connection.' Chef Kim Hee-eun said, "We prepared diligently for several months for this course, and if the guests enjoyed it, I couldn't be happier," while Chef Yoon Dae-hyun noted, "If everyone thoroughly enjoyed it, I can't think of a more rewarding outcome."
Guests also appeared satisfied with the gourmet offerings presented on the day. Mr. Kim (41), a resident of Songpa-gu, Seoul, remarked, "Singaporean or Southeast Asian cuisine was somewhat unfamiliar to me, but I didn't realize how well it could pair with Korean food." He added, "While each dish was excellent, I think the abalone and grilled tilefish will be the ones I remember the most."