The world of colors and light is truly mysterious. When different colors come together, the overlapping parts become darker. On the other hand, when you mix light of different colors, the overlapping parts tend to become brighter instead. Unexpected results also arise. This is because colors that seem like they wouldn't go well together can create a completely unexpected hue. The combinations are endless. For example, when yellow and teal meet, a warm spring green is born. The saturation varies as well. Even if they appear to be the same color, there are definitely subtle differences.
Food is no different. The harmony created by ingredients from land, sea, and air resembles what colors and light create. Additionally, the subtle differences in the food's salty and sweet flavors can distinguish satisfaction from dissatisfaction. Unexpected harmonies can open up a new world of taste. Just as colors and light meet to create unexpected beauty, the harmony of ingredients can give birth to completely new flavors. This commonality might be one of the reasons why cooking is considered art.
There is a chef who calls themselves an artist. That is Chef Seo Hyun-min, who leads the Michelin 2-star Allen. He believes that fine dining has many similarities to modern art. To inspire someone or to provide shock, breaking the mold is necessary. The same applies to food. You can expand your imagination through completely unexpected combinations. However, the fundamental aspect of 'taste' must be preserved. Therefore, one of the stubborn principles he cannot compromise on is the quality of ingredients.
Artists are often said to be lonely. It can be difficult to blend in with others because they have their own world. Chef Seo also feels like an 'outsider.' He was born in Korea but has lived in the United States for nearly 20 years. He noted that he felt an indescribable loneliness both in the United States and Korea. However, just as various colors and lights come together to create something new, he also did not stop there. Rather, he utilized this experience to build a culinary world that only he can create.
You can experience this charm in various bites at Allen. Although they are small and can easily fit in your mouth, the flavors are rich and abundant. The taste has a 'layer' that is tightly packed, akin to the birth of a single piece of oil painting. In particular, this is the case with the low-temperature cooked trout tart. It crunches as you chew while the soft flesh of the trout inside creates a contrast. The unique aroma of salmon combined with soy sauce resembles the taste of the red part of premium tuna. Then, the fragrant notes of fennel and chives subtly rise, adding a lingering quality.
A bite made with oysters, chestnut crumble, and barbecue sauce is also noteworthy. You can feel the ocean's saltiness and umami, especially from Tongyeong oysters. The addition of chestnut crumble brings sweetness and a textural contrast. The sweet and spicy flavor of barbecue sauce blends well, creating a taste that is familiar yet exotic.
A dish interpreting duck liver in the style of foie gras is also intriguing. The rich and intense flavor of poultry stands out, while jujube tempers it slightly. The sweetness of apple adds a feeling reminiscent of well-cooked jam. The biscuit lying below is crunchy and brings a nutty aspect that balances the overall flavor. Additionally, the choux pastry containing Gruyère, Reggiano, and anchovies allows one to feel the rich cheese aroma and the salty taste of the sea, which seems to pair well with a sip of wine.
Chef Seo expressed his desire to continue paving his own path. Just as each person possesses their own individuality. That is why the restaurant's name reflects his own. To showcase the footprints he has left and the path he will take solely through food. Observing the artists he admires clarifies his aspirations. Just by looking at the works of Andy Warhol and Basquiat, one can instantly recognize their unique styles. That itself could be the highest praise for an artist. The same goes for Chef Seo. He strives to create a dish that can be intuitively recognized as his, even with just one bite. That is also the direction he dreams of.
Please introduce yourself briefly.
I am Seo Hyun-min from Allen. I graduated from the Hospitality Management program at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. After building my career in Las Vegas and California, I served as a sous chef at Eleven Madison Park (3 stars) in New York. After returning to Seoul, I founded Impression and am currently active as the owner chef of Allen.
What kind of place is Allen?
Allen primarily presents seasonal dishes. I named it after my English name. Hence, the food, service, and approach all carry a personal touch. You can experience French techniques, Japanese cuisine, Korean cuisine, and more learned from various establishments.
Please describe it in a bit more detail.
My life has been a continuous journey of diversity. I have lived in the United States for over 17 years. There were many difficult times. When I first went to the U.S., I felt like an 'outsider.' However, when I returned to Korea after a long time, I found the situation was similar here. However, it seems like I have developed more in an open country. What I learned from many great restaurants like Eleven Madison Park is my strength. Personally, I believe cooking is very similar to modern art. I want to express myself more through cooking, just like Andy Warhol and Basquiat. Of course, classical works are also important.
How do you see yourself?
I don’t consider myself to be outgoing. Therefore, I try to communicate with others through food. I also pay a lot of attention to detail. You can feel the delicate aspects in the food. For instance, not all sour flavors are the same. It may be felt on the first bite, in the middle, or it might linger softly in your mouth after swallowing. I try to calculate all of these. I fully understand the weight of the saying, 'The devil is in the detail.'
It’s well known that Impression quickly rose to 2 stars after your return to Korea. Allen similarly holds a 2-star rating. What do you think is the secret behind that?
Meeting good team members has been significant. The restaurant is very systematic. There must be people who wash dishes all day, as well as those who do the cleaning. Some may only prepare ingredients, while others cook them. However, every part is important. As a chef who has worked in Michelin establishments for a long time, I had a 'sense' that this level of effort could earn a star. However, I never dreamed of receiving 2 stars from the outset. I took it as a sign to work even harder.
I'm curious about the reason for leaving Impression and founding Allen.
At Impression, it seemed like I couldn't fully showcase my food due to various interests. I focused on fermentation and aging, and since I was part of a company, I had to adhere to its policies. In fact, it seems like my identity wasn’t well represented. Since I naturally prepared exotic dishes during my long stay abroad, my friends sometimes found it unfamiliar when I made dishes focused on Korean cuisine. It was for these reasons that I opened Allen. Allen is open and resembles my life. Due to living abroad for so long, about one-third of Allen's team members are foreigners. (laughs)
You've experienced 1-star, 2-star, and 3-star distinctions; what do you think is the difference among them?
1 star is like a reward and badge for effort for chefs. Starting from 2 stars, I feel it becomes a symbol of pride for being recognized globally. The difference between 2 stars and 3 stars is thin like a sheet of paper, yet the weight is by no means light. They differ based on very subtle criteria such as the level of food, service, and response, but the meaning these differences create is enormous. Up to 2 stars, one could reach this with personal effort, but reaching 3 stars feels like something more is required. However, when I recall the 3-star chefs I worked with, it turns out that those who quietly walked their own path were the ones who received those stars.
On the whiteboard in the kitchen, it says, 'Don’t think about making art, just get it done' by Andy Warhol. I'm curious about the reason behind that.
I wrote it to inspire my team members. As I mentioned earlier, I admire artists like Warhol. I enjoy reading and try to share phrases that motivate me. To ascend, one must first have the desire to 'want to go up.'
If you had to compare your life to a dish, what dish would come to mind?
Lobster. It may be similar to an outsider as it is not available in the country, yet it pairs well with Korean cuisine. I once made it with eggplant and anchovy stock, and the combination was good. It resembles me, as I hold both foreign and Korean colors. Lobster is also difficult to prepare. I think my personality is a bit prickly too. (laughs) However, I believe that within its uniqueness, there is its distinctive taste and charm. In reality, the dish I want to create is a sincere one. I want to use good ingredients and create it honestly. If the quality dips even slightly, I wouldn't want to serve it. A moment of carelessness can easily lead to laziness.
What's your ultimate goal?
I want to achieve 3 stars, but that is not my ultimate goal. Wanting to reach 3 stars is a way to ensure I don't become disorganized myself. Rather, I now think about the colleagues I walk the path with. While running a restaurant, I found people I want to be with. I'm striving to walk together for a long time. I hope Allen will also be remembered as an unforgettable art with its own brushstrokes.