"God created water, but man created wine."
This is a quote from the great French writer Victor Hugo, often referenced when discussing wine. Although it is a brief sentence, the meaning it conveys is far from light. Wine, one of the oldest beverages, has developed alongside human history.
It is the same with humanity's great moments. Ernest Hemingway, known for 'The Old Man and the Sea', was said to have enjoyed Château Margaux. Perhaps it was a glass of wine that comforted him amid the pains of creation. French Emperor Napoleon is also reported to have taken plenty of wine whenever he embarked on a campaign. His favorite wine was Burgundy's Gevrey-Chambertin, characterized by a rough and robust taste reminiscent of an unyielding battlefield. Even today, it is similar. What was once perceived as a Western drink has deeply established itself in our daily lives. Pairing fine wine with a special occasion is now a common practice in Korea.
Calling wine simply a drink made from fermented grapes would be an understatement; it is complex and mysterious. The taste can vary greatly depending on the region, vintage, and even the soil. Even those who have been drinking wine for decades often find the equation too complicated, avoiding calling themselves experts. However, there are those who serve as guides in this realm. They are the sommeliers.
Among them, the Master Sommelier (Master Sommelier·MS) holds the most prestigious title. Since 1969, fewer than 300 individuals worldwide have passed the examination, making it a challenging process. Only those who have 'achieved enlightenment' in wine can claim this title, capable of identifying a specific wine's vintage and variety with their eyes closed. Among them is someone who is working hard to spread the charm of wine in Korea. His name is Dennis Kelly, one of America's representative Master Sommeliers.
Dennis Kelly MS is particularly focused on American wines from California. This is also where he began his wine career, but the climate is one of the optimal places for producing delicious wines. Being near the coast, California wines often have a saline breeze or a rich taste reminiscent of the vast American terrain.
He established the company 'Better Beverage Company' with the intention of introducing better beverages. Currently, its portfolio includes 11 types of wine that fully capture the allure of California. In October, a dinner pairing course he collaborated on with Chef An Sung-jae at the Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas sold out in just one minute.
One wine to watch is 'Super Necessary.' The first sip reveals well-ripened fruit aromas such as black cherry and black plum, followed by hints of mint and eucalyptus that rise like a mirage. As the sweetness of the fruit mingles with the herbal notes, a slight spiciness from Green Pepper adds complexity.
Seabold's Chardonnay wine is also noteworthy. It is characterized by the aroma of well-ripened yellow apples and peaches from the first whiff. Following this, a subtle aftertaste of hazelnut and almond envelops the palate. It's a plus that you can experience layers of flavor, also known as layer. The coffee aroma lingering slightly after swallowing is especially captivating.
Going forward, Dennis Kelly MS aims to widely promote lesser-known wines outside of California. He has chosen Korea as his main stage because he believes in the country's love for wine and its potential. His ultimate goal is for people to discover not merely wine but the good beverages that suit them through Better Beverage Company.
Please introduce yourself.
"I am Dennis Kelly, a Master Sommelier. I was born in California and moved to Ohio. As a child, I dreamed of becoming a musician, but working in a fine restaurant suited me better. I then fell into the world of wine. Currently, I am also the owner of Protégé, a Michelin one-star restaurant in Palo Alto, California."
I'm curious about how you got into the world of wine.
"I started my full-fledged wine career in Napa Valley in 2004. It was a place where wine culture was deeply rooted, and everyone around me was passionate about wine. I realized I needed knowledge to be respected in the restaurant I worked at back then. Around that time, I met Master Sommelier Bob Bath, who introduced me to the complex charms of wine. The advice from another Master Sommelier, Doug Frost, and others also significantly impacted me. Although I ventured into the wine career later at the age of 39, I passed the Master Sommelier exam as the 191st person in the world in 2012, marking a critical turning point in my career."
Please explain about Better Beverage Company.
"Established this year, the company was formed to introduce high-quality California wines to Korea. In the future, there are plans to expand the market. We supply high-quality, small-batch California wines primarily through restaurants, hotels, and retail stores. Previously, I worked for over a decade as the head sommelier at The French Laundry (Michelin three stars), handling wines from producers I met during that time. I take pride in saying that these wines are hard to find even within the U.S."
I'm curious about why you chose Korea as a business market.
"Koreans' love for wine is remarkable. During the COVID-19 pandemic, I operated a wine club in Palo Alto, and many Koreans showed great enthusiasm for wine. Additionally, Korea has an interesting drinking culture. When drinking alcohol, people strive to enjoy the experience fully. Since the focus is on enjoying the drink itself, I believed it could work here."
What types of wines are offered by Better Beverage?
"As mentioned earlier, the wines are primarily from excellent producers. First, John Alban is one of the pioneers of Rhône varietals in the U.S. Particularly in Syrah, deep fruit notes of ripe blueberries and spiciness from pepper can be felt. Also, there is wine from Chris Miller, a good colleague and friend of mine, who is also a Master Sommelier. Chris Miller's wines are mostly priced under $100, yet the quality is anything but cheap. This Pinot Noir offers the aromas of red fruits and soft tannins. Seabold Chardonnay features aromas of orchids, apples, and peaches from the first sniff. It also has a distinct hazelnut flavor. Finally, Super Necessary is a wine we produce ourselves. From the first sip, ripe flavors of cherry and black plum, along with mint aromas, can be detected. Super Necessary is crafted through my 20 years of expertise and excellent human resources, specifically made with Korean customers in mind, so I believe it will suit their palates."
I'm curious about tips for selecting good wine.
"One of the most important criteria for choosing good wine is to understand the wine's 'terroir.' Wine is greatly influenced by the soil, climate, and environment of the region where the grapes were grown. For wine beginners, a clean and refreshing white wine like Chablis is a good choice. For red wine, I recommend a light and fruit-forward wine like Beaujolais. California's Pinot Noir is smooth and good for everyone. Additionally, starting with wines that showcase the natural flavors of the fruit rather than those with strong oak notes can also be a good idea."
What is your favorite wine?
"There was a wine that felt like a destiny: E. Guigal, 'La Mouline,' Côte-Rôtie. I remember it being in 2005. I was decanting wine for a guest, and when I asked about it, the guest simply stared at me as if to say, 'Just try it.' When I took a sip, the taste and aroma were so wonderful that I couldn't forget it. It was an expensive wine, so I haven't encountered it again since. However, I’m not sure if I would want to taste it again; I fear I might be disappointed. (laughs) Everything, the temperature, the atmosphere, was perfect back then, so even if I were to drink it again, I don't think I could feel the same thrill as that moment."
If you had to recommend a wine that pairs well with Korean food, what would it be?
"I would recommend Adroit wine. It is a natural wine with hints of orange. Natural wines tend to have a rough texture and an unrefined 'funky' quality, which pairs well with Korea's fermented and aged foods. It goes well with kimchi and pickles. Aged seafood also complements it nicely. I also recommend Carignan wine from Bold Wine Company, which has ample blackberry flavor and a rich pepper aroma, making it a great match for pork belly and bulgogi. Chris Miller, who made this wine, also immediately thought of Korean barbecue when he tasted it."
If you were to compare your life to wine, how would you describe it?
"That's an interesting question. If I were to choose one, I would want to compare it to champagne. Champagne has a diverse and complex style, much like my life. I have lived a colorful and rich life, transitioning from my move to California, my journey as a musician, my experiences in the world's best restaurants, to becoming a Master Sommelier. Plus, on joyful days, don’t we celebrate with champagne? I want to believe that I have lived in that happiness."
Finally, what advice would you give to those who aspire to be sommeliers?
"I would advise those who want to become sommeliers to continuously learn and explore. Gain theoretical knowledge through reading and podcasts, and enhance your palate by tasting various wines. Finding a good mentor is also important. The world of wine is vast, so it's crucial to maintain a humble attitude at all times."
If you could drink any wine one last time, what would it be?
"I would likely choose Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier Musigny Grand Cru. Its elegant and exquisite taste is top-tier. The aroma is outstanding, enchanting, and sufficiently stimulates all the senses."
Please send a message to Korean readers.
"I am very happy to be in this beautiful country. I want to frequently introduce good wines in the future. I will do my utmost to ensure that it will be a choice you won't regret. Thank you for your interest."