"God made water, but man made wine."
This is a quote from Victor Hugo, the great French author, often referenced when discussing wine. Though it is a short sentence, its implications are anything but light. Considering that wine is one of the oldest beverages, it has evolved alongside human history.
The same goes for humanity's great moments. Ernest Hemingway, famous for 'The Old Man and the Sea,' is said to have enjoyed Château Margaux. Perhaps it was a glass of wine that comforted him during the pains of creation. Napoleon, the French emperor, also reportedly brought ample wine with him whenever he set out on a campaign. His favorite wine was the Burgundy Gevrey-Chambertin, characterized by a rough and bold taste reminiscent of a battlefield where one cannot afford to relax. The same is true today. Wine, which was once perceived solely as a Western product, has found a deep-rooted place in our daily lives. Pairing good wine with special occasions is now commonplace in Korea.
Wine is complex and mysterious to simply be called a drink made from fermented grapes. The taste varies widely depending on factors like origin, aging year, and even the soil. Even those who have been drinking wine for decades often avoid calling themselves experts, as the equation is too complex. However, there are those who serve as guides within this complexity: the sommeliers.
Among them, the Master Sommelier (MS) is the most prestigious title. Since 1969, there have been fewer than 300 individuals worldwide who have passed the certification process, which is quite challenging. This title is earned by those who can taste a specific wine and identify its production year, grape variety, and more, essentially achieving a 'state of enlightenment' in the world of wine. Among them is Dennis Kelly, who strives to widely promote the charm of wine in Korea.
Dennis Kelly MS is particularly focused on California wines. It is where he began his wine career, and the climate is one of the optimal places for producing delicious wines. Being near the coast, many California wines have the briny taste of sea breeze, or possess rich flavors reminiscent of the vast landscapes of America.
He also established the company 'Better Beverage Company' with the intention of introducing better drinks. Currently, the portfolio includes 11 wines that embody the allure of California. A dinner pairing course he collaborated on with Chef An Sung-jae at the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas last October sold out in just one minute.
One wine worth noting is 'Super Necessary.' On the first sip, ripe fruit aromas like black cherry and black plum are felt, followed by mint and eucalyptus herbal scents that rise like heat waves. The sweet fruitiness and herbal notes are complemented by a hint of the sharpness of green pepper, adding complexity.
Seabold's Chardonnay wine is also noteworthy. It is characterized by the aroma of ripe yellow apples and peaches on the first sniff. Following this, a subtle nutty and sweet aftertaste of hazelnuts envelops the mouth. The ability to experience layers of flavor, also referred to as 'RAY,' is an additional advantage. Particularly, the slight coffee aroma that lingers after swallowing is captivating.
Dennis Kelly MS's goal for the future is to widely promote relatively lesser-known wines beyond California. He has chosen Korea as his main stage because he believes in the Korean people's love for wine and its potential. His ultimate goal is for people to find not just any wine but one that suits them well through Better Beverage Company.
—Please introduce yourself.
"I am Dennis Kelly, a Master Sommelier. I was born in California and moved to Ohio. I had a dream of being a musician in my childhood, but found that working in a fine dining restaurant suited me better. I subsequently fell into the world of wine. Currently, I also serve as the owner of Protégé, a Michelin one-star restaurant in Palo Alto, California."
—I am curious about how you became immersed in the world of wine.
"I began my formal wine career in Napa Valley in 2004. It is a place where wine culture is deeply rooted, and everyone around me had a passion for wine. I realized that I needed knowledge to be respected at the restaurant I was working at. Around that time, I met Master Sommelier Bob Bath, who introduced me to the complex allure of wine. Advice from other Master Sommeliers like Doug Frost had a significant impact as well. Although I started my wine career late at the age of 39, I passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2012, becoming the 191st in the world, marking a pivotal point in my career."
—Please explain about Better Beverage Company.
"The company was established this year to introduce high-quality California wines to Korea. There are plans to broaden the market in the future. We focus on high-quality wines produced in small quantities from California and supply them through restaurants, hotels, and retail outlets. I previously worked as the head sommelier for over ten years at The French Laundry (a Michelin three-star restaurant), and I handle wines from producers I established relationships with during that time. I pride myself on offering wines that are hard to find even within the United States."
—I am curious about why you chose Korea as a business market.
"The passion for wine among Koreans is remarkable. During the pandemic, I operated a wine club in Palo Alto, where many Koreans showed great enthusiasm for wine. Additionally, Korea has an interesting drinking culture. People tend to fully enjoy the experience when drinking. Given that they appreciate wine for itself, I thought it would resonate here."
—What types of wine does Better Beverage offer?
"As mentioned earlier, we feature wines from excellent producers. First, John Alban is one of the pioneers who introduced Rhône varietals in the United States. His Syrah is particularly noted for its deep fruit aromas like ripe blueberries and a spicy kick of pepper. There's also the wine of my good buddy and fellow Master Sommelier, Chris Miller. His wines are mostly priced below $100, but the quality is far from cheap. This Pinot Noir showcases aromas of red fruits and soft tannins. The Seabold Chardonnay reveals scents of orchids, apples, and peaches on the first inhale, with hints of hazelnut flavor. Finally, 'Super Necessary' is a wine we produce ourselves. From the first sip, you can sense the ripe flavors of cherry and black plum along with mint. 'Super Necessary' is crafted from over 20 years of experience and excellent human resources; being created with Korean customers in mind, it should fit their palate well."
—I am curious about tips for choosing good wine.
"One of the most important criteria for choosing good wine is understanding the wine's 'terroir.' The quality of wine is heavily influenced by the soil, climate, and environment in which the grape was grown. For beginners, crisp and fresh white wines like Chablis are a good start. For red wine, I recommend light and fruit-forward options like Beaujolais. California's Pinot Noir is smooth, making it easy for everyone to enjoy. Also, starting with wines that showcase the essence of fruit, rather than ones with strong oak characteristics, is not a bad idea."
—What is your favorite wine?
"There was a wine that felt like destiny, and it was 'E. Guigal, "La Mouline," Côte-Rôtie.' I remember it being from 2005. I was decanting the wine for a guest when they insisted I taste it without saying anything. When I finally tasted it, the flavor and aroma were so delightful that I cannot forget it. It's an expensive wine, so I have not encountered it since. However, I don't know if I would want to drink it again. I fear being disappointed (laughs). Everything about that moment—the temperature, the atmosphere—was perfect; hence, even if I drink it again, I don't believe I could feel that same emotion."
—If you could recommend a type of wine brought in this time that pairs well with Korean food, what would it be?
"I would recommend Adroit wine. It is a natural wine with hints of orange. Natural wines tend to have a somewhat raw and unconventional 'funky' taste, which pairs well with Korea's fermented dishes. It goes well with kimchi and pickled vegetables, and they complement aged seafood too. I also recommend the Carignan wine from Bold Wines. This wine has a pronounced blackberry flavor with a rich pepper aroma, making it well-suited for samgyeopsal and bulgogi. Chris Miller, who made this wine, immediately thought of Korean barbecue as soon as he tasted it."
—If you were to compare your life to a wine, how would you describe it?
"That's an interesting question. If I had to choose one, I would pick champagne. Champagne embodies a variety of complex styles similar to my life. I've had a colorful and rich life, moving to California, pursuing a journey as a musician, experiencing working at the world's best restaurants, and becoming a Master Sommelier. Additionally, on joyous occasions, don't we pop open champagne? I would like to believe that I have lived within that happiness."
—Could you give a piece of advice to those dreaming of becoming a sommelier?
"If you want to become a sommelier, I would advise you to keep learning and exploring constantly. Learn theory through reading and podcasts, and expand your palate by tasting various wines. Finding a good mentor is also important. The world of wine is vast, so it's crucial to maintain a humble attitude always."
—Lastly, if you could choose a wine you'd like to drink, what would it be?
"I would likely choose Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier Musigny Grand Cru. Its elegant and refined taste is the best. The aroma is outstanding, alluring, and sufficiently stimulates all the senses."
—Could you say a few words to Korean readers?
"I am very happy to be in this beautiful country. I hope to frequently introduce good wines in the future. I will do my best to ensure that it will be a choice worth making. Thank you for the interest you have shown."